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(已译)Lesson 1 - Climbing Technique Primer for Beginner to Intermediate Climbers

本帖最后由 fede 于 2009-9-17 20:29 编辑

Want to get better at rock climbing? Learn about three common climbing technique issues. Improve technique with climbing exercises during indoor climbing gym workouts.  
There are common problems with climbing technique that hold many rock climbers back. Here are some ways climbing partners can help each other climb better. Climbing techniques covered include straight arms, turning when climbing, and the climbing flag. Improve at these climbing techniques by incorporating the climbing exercises provided into training for climbing at the indoor climbing gym.

A Key Climbing Technique: Keep Those Arms Straight
The longer the time a climber spends with arms bent instead of straight, the more tired critical pulling muscles become. To assess each other, climbing partners can observe whether their arms are mostly straight or mostly bent while climbing a relatively easy route.
Climbing Exercise: When contemplating how to get to the next handhold, a climber can lower down on the current handholds to totally straighten his or her arms. Bend the legs to accommodate this as necessary. Climbers should try to orient their bodies completely beneath their shoulders, if possible, with the arms totally straight, so that the weight is being held skeletally, not muscularly. Allow the legs to hold the majority of the weight. Work to find this straight-arm position in between every move.

Improve at Climbing by Turning the Body
The climber who climbs the wall as if climbing a ladder is sacrificing tremendous amounts of efficiency in doing so. To assess each other, climbing partners can observe whether their bodies stay directly facing the wall, or if they turn from side to side while climbing a relatively easy route.
Climbing Exercise: Climbers will find that straightening their arms is easier if they also turn their bodies. Work with climbing partners on a specific route that’s relatively easy and has lots of big holds. Attempt to find a way to turn those hips into the wall for each move, alternating from side to side, the whole way up — while also keeping those arms as straight as possible. This will likely involve a lot of back-stepping, as well as having one foot off of the wall or simply smearing/front-pointing for balance.  

Three Points of Contact? Learn About the Climbing Flag
It used to be accepted that good climbing technique required three points of contact, but modern climbing techniques like the climbing flag have helped dispel this notion. To assess each other, climbing partners can watch to see if either person ever drops one leg behind the other in the climbing flag position. Climbing Exercise: First, learn the climbing flag position. Grab a couple of good handholds and place one foot on a comfortable, high foothold. Bring the other leg completely behind the foot that is on the wall (see photo below). Note how the body's balance shifts when moved into a climbing flag position. Think of the foot and leg that are dropped off of the wall as a counterbalance to the body, sort of like a cat’s tail.
Now, work with a climbing partner on an easy traverse, looking for places to employ climbing flags to make moves easier. After some comfort has developed, try to find some climbing flags on the same routes used for the straight-arms/turning body exercises.

Improve Climbing with Improved Climbing Techniques
These three climbing techniques work together very well, and can be worked on together quite effectively to quickly improve a person's climbing. The climbing exercises provided are best used during rock climbing training workouts at the indoor rock climbing gym. The indoor rock climbing environment provides the opportunity to focus more on movement and less on getting to the top.  

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第一课--从初学者到进阶者的攀岩技术入门篇

本帖最后由 steven 于 2010-8-17 15:33 编辑

想爬得更好吗?那就学好下面三种基本的攀岩技术吧。在室内岩馆训练时,通过攀爬来锻炼提高技术。
有些普遍的问题让很多的攀岩者停步不前。攀岩伙伴可以相互帮助, 通过一些方法让彼此爬得更好。攀岩技术包括伸直手臂,攀爬时的身体转动和旗式平衡。在室内岩馆训练时,在攀爬当中加入这些项目的练习来提高攀岩技术。

基本的攀岩技术:伸直手臂
曲臂的时间越长,因极力收缩,手臂肌肉就会越累。攀岩伙伴可以通过互相观察判定对方在攀爬相对比较简单的线路时,是否大多数时间直臂还是曲臂。
攀爬练习:当思考如何抓下个点时,攀爬者可以抓着当前的手点,降低重心、伸直手臂。同时两腿屈膝来配合这个动作。要尽可能保持身体在肩膀的下方,手臂完全伸直,使骨骼来承受重量,而不是肌肉。让腿来承受大部分的重量。通过练习来寻找每个动作之间的直臂姿势。

通过转动身体挺高攀爬能力
如果攀爬岩壁时像是在爬梯子一样的话,就会损失非常多的效率。攀岩伙伴可以互相观察判定攀爬者在爬相对简单的路线时,攀爬过程中是否身体一直保持正对着岩壁,还是不时的左右转动身体。
攀爬练习:攀爬者会发现如果转动身体,伸直手臂会变得更加容易。在一条有很多大点的容易线路上和攀岩伙伴一起练习这个技术。一路上尽量寻找在岩壁上每个移动时转动臀部的方法和不同的方向--同时尽量保持手臂伸直。当中可能包含了很多的后仰和单脚支撑在岩壁或者只是拖尾/前踢的平衡动作。

三点接触?学学旗式平衡吧
以前人们认为好的攀岩技术都要求三点接触岩壁,但是像旗式平衡等现代的攀岩技术推翻了这种观念。攀岩伙伴可以互相观察判定攀爬者在做旗式平衡动作时,是否有把一只腿放在另一只腿的后面。
攀爬练习:首先,学习旗式平衡的动作。抓住些好点,一只脚踩在一个舒服的高脚点上;把另一只腿完全放在踩在岩壁上的脚后面(见例图四)。注意当做出旗式平衡时,身体平衡是如何转换的。把打开的脚和腿当做是身体的对抗平衡,类似猫的尾巴一样。
然后,在容易的横移线路上找一些可以用到旗式平衡的地方和攀岩伙伴一起练习,使移动更加容易。适应了这个动作后,试着在原来练习直臂/转身的线路上找些可以用到旗式平衡的地方。

提高攀岩技术来提高攀爬能力
这三项技术可以很好的交替使用,并且可以很有效、迅速地提高攀岩者的攀岩水平。例举的攀爬训练最好在室内的岩馆中进行。室内岩馆的环境更有利于把注意力集中在动作上,而不是如何登顶。

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图一:伸直手臂:一个基本的攀岩技术
图二:曲着手臂攀爬没有效率
图三:转身+伸直手臂=更有效率
图四:运用旗式平衡使攀爬、移动更容易
图五:不用旗式平衡尝试同一个移动动作

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呵呵 让骨骼承受力量 还有猫尾巴 偶要好好体会:handshake

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Fede, here we go!
I am waiting for the Lesson 2:lol

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THE LESSON 1 IS VERY USEFUL FOR THE BEGINNER TO HAVE A GOOD CLIMBING HABIT 。
闻香 ,work hard .

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THKS ,FEDE AND 小S !GO ON。。。

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本帖最后由 steven 于 2009-9-5 11:17 编辑

蚊香童鞋,你二楼占着没用,为了版面美观,我想把它删了。如何?

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师傅替徒儿作主了,美观吧!

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:lol谢谢师傅  谢谢STEVEN:victory:偶是有人做主的人啦 吼吼

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i got a good lesson,helpful
thanks a lot

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