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(已译)Lesson 1 - Climbing Technique Primer for Beginner to Intermediate Climbers
本帖最后由 fede 于 2009-9-17 20:29 编辑
Want to get better at rock climbing? Learn about three common climbing technique issues. Improve technique with climbing exercises during indoor climbing gym workouts.
There are common problems with climbing technique that hold many rock climbers back. Here are some ways climbing partners can help each other climb better. Climbing techniques covered include straight arms, turning when climbing, and the climbing flag. Improve at these climbing techniques by incorporating the climbing exercises provided into training for climbing at the indoor climbing gym.
A Key Climbing Technique: Keep Those Arms Straight
The longer the time a climber spends with arms bent instead of straight, the more tired critical pulling muscles become. To assess each other, climbing partners can observe whether their arms are mostly straight or mostly bent while climbing a relatively easy route.
Climbing Exercise: When contemplating how to get to the next handhold, a climber can lower down on the current handholds to totally straighten his or her arms. Bend the legs to accommodate this as necessary. Climbers should try to orient their bodies completely beneath their shoulders, if possible, with the arms totally straight, so that the weight is being held skeletally, not muscularly. Allow the legs to hold the majority of the weight. Work to find this straight-arm position in between every move.
Improve at Climbing by Turning the Body
The climber who climbs the wall as if climbing a ladder is sacrificing tremendous amounts of efficiency in doing so. To assess each other, climbing partners can observe whether their bodies stay directly facing the wall, or if they turn from side to side while climbing a relatively easy route.
Climbing Exercise: Climbers will find that straightening their arms is easier if they also turn their bodies. Work with climbing partners on a specific route that’s relatively easy and has lots of big holds. Attempt to find a way to turn those hips into the wall for each move, alternating from side to side, the whole way up — while also keeping those arms as straight as possible. This will likely involve a lot of back-stepping, as well as having one foot off of the wall or simply smearing/front-pointing for balance.
Three Points of Contact? Learn About the Climbing Flag
It used to be accepted that good climbing technique required three points of contact, but modern climbing techniques like the climbing flag have helped dispel this notion. To assess each other, climbing partners can watch to see if either person ever drops one leg behind the other in the climbing flag position. Climbing Exercise: First, learn the climbing flag position. Grab a couple of good handholds and place one foot on a comfortable, high foothold. Bring the other leg completely behind the foot that is on the wall (see photo below). Note how the body's balance shifts when moved into a climbing flag position. Think of the foot and leg that are dropped off of the wall as a counterbalance to the body, sort of like a cat’s tail.
Now, work with a climbing partner on an easy traverse, looking for places to employ climbing flags to make moves easier. After some comfort has developed, try to find some climbing flags on the same routes used for the straight-arms/turning body exercises.
Improve Climbing with Improved Climbing Techniques
These three climbing techniques work together very well, and can be worked on together quite effectively to quickly improve a person's climbing. The climbing exercises provided are best used during rock climbing training workouts at the indoor rock climbing gym. The indoor rock climbing environment provides the opportunity to focus more on movement and less on getting to the top.
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