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（已翻译）Lesson 5 - Rock Climbing Training, Climbing Dynamically
本帖最后由 steven 于 2009-10-22 16:27 编辑
Rock Climbers Should Learn to Dyno & Use Climbing Dynos Effectively
Learning to climb more dynamically can improve climbing performance. This article covers why to dyno and how to improve climbing dyno technique/dynamic climbing ability.
While some rock climbers take to dynamic climbing relatively naturally, for other climbers,learning to climb dynamically proves challenging. However, the ability to climb dynamically is an important skill for rock climbers to master if they are interested in maximizing rock climbing performance. Rock climbers can use a number of different climbing training exercises, including those described in this article, to learn how to climb more dynamically.
Why Learn How to Dyno for Climbing?
Being able to dyno orto climb dynamically can improve climbing performance. Sometimes, a dynamic climbing movement is actually the only solution to performing a particular series of rock climbing movements. Other times, using a climbing dyno allows the rock climber to bypass a much more technically difficult section of rock climbing, thereby saving energy. And sometimes, a last-second dynamic movement makes the difference between falling off of a rock climb versus successfully completing it.
Climbing Dyno Exercise#1: Watch Other Rock Climbers Who Are Good at Climbing Dynos
One of the best ways for a rock climber to begin understanding the correct motion used to complete a successful climbing dyno or dynamic movement is to become a keen observer of other rock climbers. Simply analyze how a good “dyno-er” executes a climbing dyno, and then attempt to copy that climber’s movement. It’s especially helpful to enlist a climbing partner to provide feedback, too.
Climbing Dyno Exercise#2: Start with Small Pops and Jumps
Learning how to climb dynamically can be incredibly frustrating if the rock climber starts by trying to perform climbing dynos that are too advanced. It’s best to start out by creating single, small dynamic moves in the gym with a climbing partner who also wants to work on dynamic climbing movement.
The dynamic climbing moves can either involve “popping” one hand dynamically from one handhold to the next handhold, or by performing small jumps (in which the feet come off)between good handholds. The idea is to develop an understanding of the timing and movement required to perform dynamic climbing moves, and then to gradually increase the distance of the pops and jumps as the movement becomes more familiar.
Climbing Dyno Exercise#3: Use a Campus Board
Using the campus board can help improve a climber’s timing and strength for performing dynamic climbing movements. A basic beginner exercise involves matching hands on the board’s biggest, lowest rung. Move one hand up to the next rung (see photo C,below), and then match. Then, if possible, drop one hand back down to the first rung, and then the other — but let go if it feels like the muscles can’t support the motion of moving back down.
Please note that it’s important to be very careful when using a campus board, since it can be injury provoking if used inappropriately or too soon in a climber’s training. Work into campusing slowly and consider asking for help from a more seasoned climber or a member of the climbing gym staff on appropriate campus board form.
Climbing Dyno Exercise#4: Jumping Training
Since much of climbing dynamically — especially dynoing — involves pushing off hard with the feet and generating leg power in jumping, it’s appropriate to incorporate some jumping training into training for dynamic rock climbing. The aim is not to build up huge leg muscles, but rather, to build up confidence and to improve ability level in leaping as high as possible.
First, jog in place for a minute or two to warm up the legs. Rest for a couple minutes, and then perform three sets of 10 jumps, reaching up with alternate hands on each jump(as if reaching for a climbing hold). Attempt to improve the height reached with each leap. Then, perform three sets of 10 hops on one leg on each side,attempting to reach as high as possible with each hop.
Climbing Dyno Exercise#5: Tap Training
Choose two starting handholds and one starting foothold (see photo D, below). Establish a goal handhold to reach with one hand that’s far enough away that the rock climber can’t reach it statically. Then, the climber should attempt to reach up and tap(or grab) the hold (photo E), using dynamic climbing movement, and then return to the starting position (back to photo D). Repeat five times on each side.
Using Climbing Dynos Effectively to Improve Climbing Performance
By training for climbing more dynamically, the rock climber will start to incorporate dynamic climbing and even climbing dynos into his or her regular climbing pattern. Having this climbing technique available will make it possible at times to bypass a more difficult climbing sequence with one big move. Being able to climb dynamically will also enable the rock climber to throw for a climbing hold should a climbing dyno be the only viable solution.
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