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（已翻译）Lesson 7.2 - Training on fingerboards
本帖最后由 steven 于 2009-12-21 15:45 编辑
Fingerboards is most effective at training contact strength, body tension and general upper-body strength. Contact strength, also referred to as finger strength, is simply the ability to hold onto the holds (as opposed to the ability to move between the holds). It is the single most important type of strength for a climber to have. If you can't even hold on to the grips, there is no way you will be able to move between them.Body tension, sometimes called core strength, allows you to distribute the force you are generating between your points of contact and to direct your movement. It allows you to weight your feet and save energy. This type of strength (or the lack there of) is especially noticeable in controlling swings around the lips of roofs or on steep rock in general, but it is critical to all climbing movement.
How to Grasp the Grips
You should use an open-handed grip as much as possible. Most climbers are weaker open-handed than crimped, so you may find this difficult at first, but you'll get used to it. Training open-handed will increase your crimp strength (but not vice-versa), and it is essential for holding pockets, slopers, and certain edges, as well as making moves at maximum stretch and catching dynos. Most importantly, however, using an open hand lowers the potential for injury. As you adapt to training, you can incorporate a little crimp training to increase your maximum edge-holding power, but keep it to a minimum.
Warm Up, Warm Down
It is critical to warm up thoroughly. You can start by climbing, bouldering, or doing easy pull-ups and dead hangs, along with gentle stretching. Make the first 15minutes ridiculously easy and gradually increase the intensity until you're at full power. Reverse this process at the end of your session to prevent injury and speed up recovery. The warm down should be even easier than the warm up. It should feel as if you're doing almost nothing. The idea is just to keep the blood flowing for 15 or 20 minutes after the high intensity part of your workout.
Recovery
To maximize your gains and prevent injury, you should always be fully recovered before a training session. Not resting enough between workouts will soon lead to a plateau, quickly followed by injury and burn out. If it takes you longer than normal to feel warmed up, or if you haven't noticed any improvement in three or four sessions, you probably need more rest. Listen to your body and be flexible with your training schedule.
Making It Easier
If you find certain exercises or holds too difficult at first, you can put one foot on a chair or have a training partner assist you by taking off as much weight as necessary. Be sure to have a clean,open, well-padded landing area, as an awkward, off-balance fall is a greater possibility when your feet are helping to take your weight.
Exercises
Dead Hang
This is the fundamental exercise for developing contact strength. It can be performed with two arms or one. You should master the two-arm dead hang on any particular hold before attempting any other exercise on that hold. Never lock your elbows completely. Always keep a slight bend to prevent injury.
Bent-Arm Hang
A variation of the dead hang which will begin to develop your ability to pull through and lock-off. This can be done at any angle, and should be varied as much as possible. Pull yourself up to the designated angle and hold a static contraction for the designated amount of time. Be careful of doing maximal contractions at full lock-off, as they can be as injurious as fully locked-out elbows.
Offset Hang
This exercise begins to develop one-arm power. Begin as with the two-arm dead hang, but choose a lower and/or worse hold with the assisting hand. Center your weight under the arm to be loaded and perform the hang giving yourself just enough help with the other hand to complete the exercise. A variation that is good for training lock-off strength is to take two similar holds at the same height, but at least shoulder width apart. Pull up part way and lock-off as in a bent-arm hang. Shift your weight all the way to one side and hold a contraction. Shift your weight laterally, all the way to the other side, without lowering your body and hold an equal contraction. Repeat. Vary the angle of your lock-off, the duration of your lock-off, and the number of repetitions.
Pull-up
Try to be as smooth as possible. Don't jerk, kip, swing, orotherwise cheat.
Keep your lower body quiet. Don't lock your elbowscompletely at the bottom.
Focus on maintaining perfect form, and don't worry about thenumber
of repetitions.
Offset Pull-up
The first step to one-arm pull-ups. Position yourself with your weight centered under one arm, as if to do a one-arm pull-up. Choose a lower hold with the other hand and give yourself just enough assistance to complete the exercise.
One-arm Pull-up
Now you really have some power! Follow the same guidelines as for pull-ups, but rotate your body inward to center your weight under the arm you're using. If you're getting close but can't quite do one arms, do an offset pull-up, but perform the negative contraction (lower yourself) as a pure one-arm. The potential for injury is very high, so it is absolutely critical to be smooth. Don't bounce!
L-Hang
The emphasis here is on core strength. Choose a hold that you're fairly comfortable on. You can dead-hang or bent-arm hang.Pull your legs up from the hips, keeping your knees straight. Hold a static contraction with your legs at 90° to your torso or do slow repetitions raising your legs as far as you can but only lowering to about 45° below horizontal. If you lower your legs all the way, it will take the tension off your abs and constitute a rest. The idea is to keep your abdominal muscles contracted the entire time. If straight leg raises are too difficult, bend your knees at a 90°angle.
Front Lever
This is a very advanced exercise in which the body is held rigidly, parallel to the ground, by levering off the arms. Begin by pulling your feet up until your body is perpendicular to the ground, feet up, head down. Slowly lower your feet, holding your body totally rigid, until your body is parallel to the ground. Work up to these by performing them first with both legs bent at the knees, and then with one leg straight and one bent.If you are one of the rare few who can do a good front lever, try it with one arm.
Ten-Minute Sequences
The ten-minute sequence consists of ten tasks,one performed at the start of each minute, with the remaining time used to rest until the start of the next minute. Some tasks will simply be one exercise, and some tasks will include two or more exercises. It is an excellent format for training both strength and stamina in the same workout, for improving your recovery, or just for warming up. It is also a great way to simulate the demands of your current project.
Training Guide - 10 Minute Sequences
The 10 minute sequence consists of 10 tasks, one performed at the start of each minute with the remaining time used to rest until the start of the next minute. It is an excellent format for training both strength and stamina in the same workout, for improving your recovery, or just for warming up. It is also a great way to simulate the demands of your current project.
I have included two sample routines, but the ten-minute sequence is most effective when you custom tailor it to your own personal needs. Be creative and don't limity ourself. It could be five minutes or thirty minutes; you could do it in 45second cycles or two-minute cycles. Experiment with your training and keep it as varied as possible.
Time (minutes)
| Easier Workout
| Harder Workout
| 1st minute
| 3 pulls Medium Edge
| 6 pulls Round Sloper
| 2nd minute
| 10 second hang Round Slope
2 pulls Medium Edge
| 20 second hang Medium Edge
3 Pulls Jugs
| 3rd minute
| 15 second hang Small Edge
2 pulls 3 Finger Pocket
| 20 second hang Small Edge
3 pulls 3 Finger Pocket
| 4th minute
| 15 second hang Jugs
3 pulls Medium Edge
| 25 second hang Round Sloper
5 pulls Large Edge
| 5th minute
| 20 second hang Round Sloper
3 pulls 3 Finger Pocket
| 25 second hang Large Edge
3 pulls Medium Edge
| 6th minute
| 10 second hang Medium Edge
2 pulls Small Edge
| 30 second Hang Round Sloper
5 pulls Small Edge
| 7th minute
| 10 second hang Jugs
4 pulls Round Sloper
| 20 second hang Large Edge
3 pulls 1 3/8" 2 Finger Pocket
| 8th minute
| 5 pulls Medium Edge
| 20 second hang Medium Edge
3 pulls 1 1/2" 2 Finger Pocket
| 9th minute
| 3 pulls Jugs
| 15 second hang Flat Sloper
3 pulls Jugs
| 10th minute
| Max. Hang Round Sloper
| Max. Hang Round Sloper
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