Falling Practice 冲坠练习 Falling, Practice, 练习

steven

转载自 台湾攀岩资料库 http://www.climbing.org/showthread.php?t=4098
发文者： Neihu

文章转录自 Climbing Magazine 官网：
http://www.climbing.com/print/techti...flight_school/

Tech Tips: Falling Practice
技术指南：冲坠练习
By Arno Ilgner
翻译：Zenith

Just because you don’t actually feel afraid to fall does not mean you are completely comfortable falling. It’s the uncertainty that gets us. We know we might fall, so at committing cruxes we hesitate, second-guess, slap lamely for a hold, or simply let go. What we need is more practice with the whole falling process, so we can commit 100 percent to hard climbing. It’s important to dial down the stress of falling a little at a time. Remain comfortable as you practice: don’t just climb up and take a big whipper. You’ll tense up and “endure” the exercise, further ingraining a fear-based mindset. Instead, use the following methods, which extend your comfort zone in small increments, just like any good “stretching” activity.

仅仅因为不害怕冲坠并不代表你能完全舒服地冲坠。正是冲坠的不确定性会害到我们。都知道我们可能冲坠，所以当你在投入到奋战难点时都会经历犹豫、猜疑、笨拙地拍点、最后简单地放弃而掉下来。事实上我们最需要练习冲坠整个过程，若此我们才能得以100%投入到攀登中。冲坠中，能一次减小冲坠的应力是非常重要的。当你练习时，保持舒适的状态：不要仅仅鲁莽的向上然后大喊一声。若此你只会持续紧张，遭受训练中的折磨，并将形成一系列心理恐惧症。取而代之地，是如同你舒筋拉骨时日积跬步一样，每次渐进地提高你能舒适控制冲坠的能力限度。

THE SET-UP
Begin by picking a slightly overhanging sport climb with a clean mid- or upper-section. Start with short falls in case there are obstacles you didn’t notice. The terrain should be easy enough that you can climb up or down without too much effort. Lead up 40 to 50 feet. At the bolt of your choice, stop and have your belayer lower you about 15 feet, creating a toprope scenario with plenty of rope in the system. Begin practicing here.

准备工作：

从挑选一条有仰角的运动线路开始，线路中部和顶部要悬空无障碍物。慢慢的尝试小幅度冲坠以防撞到你之前观察时没有看到的障碍物。线路要足够简单，使得你能轻松的爬上或者爬下来。先锋爬上10米到15米。在你挑选的挂片那里让你的保护者放你下来，营造一个顶绳攀登的场景，你和挂片间有足够的绳距。好了，开始练习！

TOPROPED FALLS
Your belayer should lock you off (not taking in slack) as you climb up a few feet. Now take a fall. Focus on your form: look down, with arms and legs shoulder-width apart and bent, and exhale as you fall. Looking down allows you to see your landing zone. A relaxed-but-ready arm and leg position allows you to respond to the impact into the rock, if any. Exhaling throughout the fall helps you stay relaxed. The longer your fall, the longer your exhale should be. Next, climb up five or six feet while your belayer locks you off, still on toprope, then fall as before, looking down and keeping arms and legs shoulder-width apart and bent. Exhale all the way through the fall. As you gain comfort, slowly increase the distance of the fall, but never climb above the level of the highest clipped bolt. If you begin tensing up, backtrack to shorter falls until you can fully relax. Once you’re falling 15 or 20 feet on a slack toprope, exhaling the entire way, you can move on to short lead falls.

顶绳冲坠

你往上攀登几米的同时让保护者时刻收紧绳子，切忌很松的保护。试着冲坠一下。注意你的姿态：向下看；两臂和双腿分开距离与肩同宽；且弯曲放松，呼气。向下看帮助你观察着地的区域。放松而时刻准备好的手和脚帮你缓撞到墙上的冲击荷载。呼气帮你整个下坠中保持轻松。冲的越远，呼气越深。接下来，让保护者锁死绳子（不收绳不给绳），而你带着松弛绳子向上攀登2米左右，仍顶绳，然后像前面所说地进行冲坠，练习前面学习的3点：往下看，手脚松紧有度、全程深呼气。当你能完全舒服的掌握时，逐渐提高冲坠高度，但千万别高过挂住你最高那个挂片。此过程若感到紧张，回溯到之前较短的高度反复练习到轻松的程度。一旦你可以在松弛的绳子上冲5米到6米，可以全程的呼气，你就可以过渡到先锋冲坠了。

THERE’S A CATCH
When you practice falling, make sure you also practice catching a patner’s falls. Belaying falls will help you understand what to look and ask for when you’re leading. If you are inexperienced or nervous about catching falls, you’ll contract and stay rooted to the ground, causing a hard catch and possibly slamming the leader into the rock. Instead, “give in” to the fall and allow yourself to be pulled up two to five feet or more, depending on the force of the fall. Don’t jump; let the force of the fall do the work. Practice catching people of different body sizes. Giving a knowledgeable, cushioned catch is critical for keeping your partners safe during lead falls.

先锋保护：

在你练习冲坠的同时，一定不忘练习冲坠的保护。保护冲坠的人可以帮助你理解在先锋攀登时怎样判断、怎样给指令。如果你对先锋保护制动没有经验或感到紧张，你会收缩身子，僵硬地停在地面，造成的非常机械而僵硬的急刹车制动，以至于导致攀登者狠狠撞在墙上。取而代之地，“顺从”冲坠的引导，并且视冲坠大小的情形，让你的身体自然地被冲坠拉起1到2米（甚至更多）。
切忌主动跳起来，而要听从冲坠自然地引导。 练习制动住不同体重的人。提供充满智慧的、软气垫一般的制动是安全保护攀岩者的关键。

LEAD FALLS
Using the same rigging as before, climb to the high bolt while your belayer gives you a regular lead belay. With the bolt at your waist, let go, falling as far as the slack in the system allows. Pay attention to your form: looking down, arms and legs bent, exhaling through the fall. Climb up a move or two and practice short lead falls until you are comfortable and relaxed. Slowly increase the length of the fall. The belayer should be giving you a very active, cushioned catch. Exhale slowly all the way down each fall, and remember to simply let go, not jump out. Jumping out will cause you to swing more sharply into the rock as the rope comes tight. You can test this effect, carefully, to see how it works and improve your falling and impacting skills. At all times, the catches should feel very soft. Spread out your practice sessions over several days, and slowly increase the distances until you are taking falls longer than those you’re facing on your project routes. Incorporate a few falls into your daily warm-up routine. You can also do this exercise on a project you’re working on, practicing a specifi c fall that might be holding you back. If you discover that your project does not have a clean, safe fall, you’ve learned something vitally important. Pick a safer climb for pushing your limits. With a little time focusing on commitment to falling, you’ll improve your commitment to climbing. It may be too late to get physically stronger for this autumn’s projects, but a clearer mind might be just what you need to send.

先锋冲坠：

使用同样的设置，开始先锋攀登并让你的保护者转到正常的先锋保护当中。爬到挂片与你腰齐平的位置，自然地脱落，坠到绳子能够延伸的极限。注意你的姿态：往下看，手脚松紧有度，全程深呼气。向上做1个或2个动作然后练习冲坠直到你完全感到舒适而放松。逐渐提高冲坠的距离。保护者一定要提供有意识的、软气垫般制动。每次冲坠全程呼气，并时刻记住自然脱落，切忌跳步。跳下来会导致绳子绷紧的瞬间，你如同钟摆般更猛烈的撞向石头。你可以检验这种果效，谨慎地，发现这一切是如何运作，并同时提高你冲坠和撞墙面的技巧。任何时刻，制动必须要很柔和。持续若干天练习，并逐渐增加冲坠的高度到大过你在实际攀登中可能遭遇的最大冲坠。何不在你每日的训练课程中掺进几次先锋冲坠？你也可以在你现在正在死磕的线路上加几次冲坠练习嘛，或许这其中的某个冲坠正是阻挡你向上的原因。当你发现你死磕线路下方不够悬空，不够安全时，你就已经发现冲坠性命攸关的重要性了。请在安全的线路上挑战你的极限！在冲坠上投入一点热忱，你将可以投入更多的热忱到攀登中。或许为这个秋天磕线强健体魄已经为时太晚，但更清醒的头脑绝对是你此时要去具备的。