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本帖最后由 steven 于 2018-2-3 22:10 编辑
Petzl攀岩之旅：多段结组攀登中的绳索技术
原文出处http://www.petzl.com/en/outdoor/ ... ulti-pitch-climbing 翻译：小彭/Steven
With only a few days left until the Petzl Roc Trip, we thought it would be a good time to go over some basic rope handling techniques for multi-pitch sport climbing. The objective here is not to go in great detail about the activity itself, but rather to highlight the basics and go over some tips that will make climbing multi-pitch routes more enjoyable. The photos in this article are only meant for demonstration and have no technical purpose.
离Petzl的攀岩之旅还有几天，现在回顾一下多段结组运动攀登的基本绳索操作技术正是好时候。当然我们的主题不是详细介绍这次活动的细节，而是强调基本技术和一些小技巧，熟练掌握这些将使你更能享受多段结组攀登的乐趣。本文中的图片只是示范，无技术指导目的。
The beautiful lines of Cathédrale are waiting for climbers at the Petzl Roc Trip.
在Petzl攀岩之旅中，等待攀岩者攀登的漂亮线路Cathédrale
The Gorges de la Jonte have many classic three- to five-pitch sport routes rated from 4+ to 6b. Most of the routes have been re-equipped with glue-in bolts and don't require cams or other traditional protection. However, the re-equipping was done in the spirit of the original ascent. While the chances of a potentially dangerous ledge fall have been minimized, it doesn't mean that the routes are bolt ladders. Even on the routes rated in the 5's can be a little run-out.
de la Jonte峡谷有许多经典的3段到5段结组线路，难度从4+到6b不等。大部分的线路已经重新更换了化学螺栓挂片，不需要凸轮机械塞或其他传统攀登的器械来设置保护。当然，重修线路是在原始攀登的精神下进行的。虽然在一个存在潜在危险的平台脱落的几率已经被最小化，但并不表示螺栓挂片如梯子般密集，即使在5的线路上也可能有几个大跨度的挂片！
Crowds on on the first belay acnhors at the "Diagonale du Gogol" sector.A jumble of climbing teams crossing each other while others are rappelling.A helmet is highly recommended.
攀爬者拥挤在Diagonale du Gogol的第一段保护站。不同攀爬团队混杂的通过保护点或利用保护点下降，强烈推荐佩戴头盔。
Climbing has become more and more popular, as evidenced by the crowds at this cliff earlier this spring. The first thing we noticed: even on this warm weekend, most all of the climbers were wearing helmets. Without a doubt, the technical improvements over the recent years that have allowed helmets to be lighter, more comfortable, well-ventilated and good-looking mean that there is no longer any excuse for not wearing one. Not only do they help protect your head from falling rocks and other objects, but helmets also help protect from impacts as a result of a fall.
早春时来到这个岩壁的人群，证明了攀岩变得越来越受欢。第一件事情引起我们注意的是：即使在这样炎热的周末，大多数攀登者戴了头盔。毫无疑问，近年来的技术改进使头盔变得更轻，更舒适，也更通风，外形也变得漂亮了很多，因此以前不愿意戴头盔的理由都已不构成理由了。头盔不仅保护你不受落石和其他坠落物的威胁，也可以使你在冲坠时避免头部受到冲击。
Falling
Attention : make sure the rope does not run under your leg
冲坠
注意：不要让绳索留在腿后(这样可以避免如上图的头朝下冲坠）
Things get complicated at the belay, where rope management plays a key role in the helping ensure climbing safety. In general, things go pretty well when the belays are equipped with glue-in bolts linked by a chain 1.5m above a nice big ledge. But in reality, it becomes more complicated when there's not a ledge, when there's no chain between the bolts, when more than one climbing party is sharing the same anchor, when your climbing in a party of three or when the same person is leading the entire route, etc.
保护时事情变得有点复杂，这时绳索的处理对确保安全攀爬起了关键的作用。总的说来，当保护站设置在一个理想的大平台上方1.5m处，并由钢链连接在一起的多个化学螺栓组成时，操作会很顺利。但实际上，当没有平台，或没有钢链连接螺栓挂片，当不止一个攀登团队共用一个保护站，或者在一个三人的团队里，一个人始终领攀整条线路时，保护就变得很复杂。
Second belay station on Biotone. A station like this requires very a organized set-up adapted to the situation. Above, a climber from one party has just started a pitch as a climber from another party has just arrived at the belay...
More in detail, we can see the first piece is not clipped. The leader has already clipped several bolts, so the belayer can free the redirect bolt for the next team. A situation to be anticipated...
Biotone线路上的第二个保护站。像这样的保护站需要很有条理的安排来应对此时的情形。上面一个团队的攀爬者已开始攀登下一段，同时另一个团队的一名攀爬者刚到达保护站。更详细点的话，我们可以看到第一个快挂没有挂绳。领攀的人已经将绳子挂入几个块挂，所以保护者可以将保护站用于绳索变向的挂片留给下一个团队的人用。这种情况可以预想到。。。
（redirect指的是多段结组攀登时，在多段线路中间部分的保护站上，确保者在保护领攀者开始爬下一段线路前，应当先设置好一个保护点，并将连接保护器到领攀者之间的绳索扣入保护点，这样领攀者才可以开始攀爬。这样做的目的是为了防止领攀者在未将保护绳扣入上方第一个快挂前脱落，导致冲坠的重量全部作用在确保者的安全带确保环上。如设置了这么一个点，就可以改变绳索受力的位置，使这个点来承受大部分的冲击力，所以我翻译成“绳索变向”或“受力变向”。在下面的描述和图解中有详细说明。）
In every case, it's important to follow these rules:
Everyone is directly or indirectly clipped to 2 separate anchors (using locking carabiners). Attaching the climbing rope with a clove-hitch to the anchor allows for simple adjustments so there's no slack in the system. Never rely on a single carabiner at the belay station!
Keep the belay station simple and well-organized.
在任何情况下，遵守下面的原则非常的重要：
**每个人必须直接或间接固定在2个以上分开的锚点/保护点上（用带锁的铁锁）。
**利用容易调节绳子长度的双套结连接主绳，使在整个保护系统中没有松懈的部分。在确保站上，永远不要只依靠单个铁锁保护。
**保持确保站简单明了和井然有序。
Belay used when swapping leads:
Belay station using a sling. Each rope is attached individually to each bolt with a clove hitch.
The locking carabiner and belay device are attached with a clove hitch.
Both bolts are equalized.
交替领攀时的确保方法：
**保护站利用一条扁带连接。每条绳用双套结分别独立连接到每个单独的挂片上。
**锁住保护器的铁锁连接在双套结上。
**2个挂片的受力平均。
Belay station using the rope and two clove hitches.
To be used only when both anchors are deemed to be solid.
保护站用主绳和2个双套结连接。
只有在确信2个锚点/保护点都牢固的情况下方可使用。
Clove hitch for tying off at the anchor
在锚点处打双套结的方法。
When the leader is building the belay, s/he should try to anticipate rope management needs for the next pitch. There are different techniques for this, depending on the situation: whether the team is swapping leads, the same person is leading the entire route, or if its a team of three.
当领攀者在设置确保时，她/他应该预先想到为下一段线路理绳的需要。这种情况下有不同的技术，要看当时的情况而定：如交替领攀的团队，一直同一个人领攀整条线路的团队，或者3个人结组的团队。
下图：
交替领攀（注意：图上的情况是双绳攀登技术，单绳攀登时可能用的方法不同，但原理基本相同）：
1. 到达保护站：检查锚点，确定牢固后固定自己。
2. 用双套结将一个铁锁固定在扁带上。
3. 确保跟攀的第二攀登者。
4. 第二个攀登者到达保护站并固定好自己后，整理装备，准备开始领攀。
5. 将确保绳索放入定向锚点。
6. 第二个攀登者成为领攀者。
Before setting off on the next pitch, always make sure a redirect is clipped as high as possible on the belay. If the leader falls before clipping the first bolt on the route, this redirect allows for the correct operation of braking belay devices like the REVERSO. Attention: this redirect reduces the fall factor, but increases the potential force on the belay anchors. A redirect on the belay station is for multi-pitch sport climbing, with bolted anchors. If the anchor doesn't seem totally solid, you should avoid this type of set-up.
在出发攀爬下一段线路前，永远都要在保护器的上方设置一个受力变向保护点，位置越高越好，并确定将保护绳扣入。如果领攀者在挂第一个挂片前脱落，这个变向保护点可以使如REVERSO之类的保护器进行正确的制动操作。注意：这个变向保护点减小了冲坠系数，但增加了确保锚点的潜在冲击力。在保护站设置变向保护点是应用于有螺栓锚点的多段结组运动攀。如果锚点不是相当的牢固，你应该避免这种设置。
Obligatory redirect:
On a piece very close to the belay or on the bolted belay itself.
必要的受力变向保护点：
设在一个很接近确保的保护点上，或者直接在螺栓确保点上。
At the belay, the rope is stacked so it won't get tangled or stuck. Try to avoid letting the loops hang lower than the belayer. A few minutes of organization before the leader sets off will help prevent a real mess later.
下图：在保护站，绳子是堆叠在一起的，因此不会缠结在一起或卡住。尽量避免绳圈挂在保护者之下。在领攀者出发前，花几分钟将绳子理顺可以避免稍后变得一团糟。
Three solutions for organizing the rope
3种处理绳子的方法
Second belay on the Arête Ouest with no ledge.
Here, the leader belays the second and stacks the rope on the anchor.
This helps prevent the rope from getting hung up on the flakes below.
在Arête Ouest 线路上的第二个保护站没有平台
在这里，领攀者在保护跟攀者并将绳子有序的堆叠在锚点上。
这样可以防止绳子挂住下方的岩石薄片。
The same team at the start of the 3rd pitch on the Arête Ouest. The same person is doing the leading (white helmet) and the second (orange helmet) took the time to re-stack the rope. At the beginning of the pitch, the belayer pays very careful attention to the climber, especially when clipping.
在Arête Ouest 线路上，同一个团队在第三段开始部分。同一个人正在领攀（白色头盔），同时第二个人（橙色头盔）慢慢的理绳、送绳。在这段线路的开始部分，确保者非常小心注意攀爬者的状态，特别是挂快挂的时候。
Why aren't all belays equipped with chains? The classic routes of the Cirque des Vases are frequently climbed. Not putting chains on the anchors prevents people from rappelling the routes and getting in the way of other climbers. A specific rappel descent was put in place. If a team does have trouble and needs to descend, it could at least rap off the glue-in bolts. At the top of the routes, the last belay is often placed on the edge of the cliff. They are set up this way to avoid rock fall from the top caused by the rope, etc. and they also make it easier for the team to communicate, especially if there's a lot of wind. If the leader does decide to belay from the top, s/he should be careful to keep in mind what's going on below. Pay careful attention to the knots and the correct usage of belay devices - realizing that the set-up might be the opposite of how it is normally. It's usually preferable to hang below the edge and belay.
为什么所有的保护站不是都装有钢链？Cirque des Vases的经典线路经常被人频繁的攀爬。没有在保护站上安装顶链是为了防止人们从上往下降而妨碍其他攀岩者的攀爬。一个特定的下降保护点设在旁边。如果某个团队确实碰到麻烦并必须下降，至少可以离开化学螺栓挂片的线路。在线路的顶部，最后一个保护站往往设在悬崖的边上。这种设置是为了避免顶部因为绳子等其他东西导致的落石。同时这样使队员间的通讯更加容易，特别是在风很大的时候。如果领攀者确实要在顶部做保护，她/他必须小心记住确保的操作流程。非常注意绳结和正确使用保护器--意识到这样的设置可能和正常情况下正好相反。通常情况下，挂在悬崖边上确保更合适。 |
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