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动态---关于弹跳的学问：飞吧，亲，飞吧！www.8a.nu By: Jonas Emanuelsson | Date: 2006-08-31 | Category: Training
译者：tethys (磨溪小T)
Patric Alm Törnrosa, 8a, Sweden Everyone feels too short when the holds are far away, right? So, what?s the clue? What are you to think, that makes it possible to fly and land those crucial centimeters higher up?
当手点特别远时，我猜每个人都会抱怨自己长的太矮。可那又怎样？该如何应对？怎么做才能跳跃起来抓住更高的手点？Naturally, every dyno is, to a certain extent, unique in terms of holds, angles, length etc., but there is also at least one aspect in which all dynos are similar; you have to let go... What decides if you are to succeed are your physical shape, technique, but most of all your mind. Here are 14 pieces of advice and training tips from a 166 cm short man, with negative gorilla index and a 193 cm tall guy with positive gorilla index.
通常而言，不同的支点、角度、高度等等因素会导致每一个动态都不尽相同。但是所有动态却又的确有一个共同点：你必须放手一搏......成功与否取决于你的身体条件和技术，但是最主要的是你的意志。这里有14个训练动态的技巧，适用于身高只有166cm的矮小人士到193cm的大个子。1. Let the catching hand go as late as possible!
1.出手越晚越好！A very common fault among beginners is to let the catching hand go too early in the movement. Doing this, you‘ll lose a lot of power which the hand would have generated if you?d have let it go later. You get a longer part of the dyno without contact. The best way to correct this mistake is probably to do the "candle". This means trying to get the body as high (up in the air that is) as possible without letting the hands go until the lose touch with the hold through the momentum of the body.
初学者容易犯的一个错误就是在做动态时过早的出手。比起晚些出手，这样做会让你损失大部分冲力。过早出手会让你在做动态的过程中身体离开岩壁的时间变长。纠正错误的最佳办法是尽可能的做“向上腾跃”动作。具体来讲就是试着让身体尽可能的向上伸展，直至到达最高点再松开手。2. Slap on the wall/hold!
2.拍墙/拍点！When you start working a dyno, it often feels impossible. You feel there’s no use even trying really, and if you do, you don?t really go for it. To get a sense of improvement, start slapping the wall as high up as possible. Try to set new personal records. In time the record often gets dangerously close to the hold, and you can start trying to grab it.
刚开始尝试一个动态动作的时候，你往往会觉得不太可能完成。甚至感觉尝试都是徒劳，即使去做了动态，也够不到那个点。这时候你要从拍墙开始循序渐进的练习，先跳着去拍尽可能高的地方，拍到之后再定新的目标，让这个目标越来越接近你要抓的目标点，一遍遍的练，直到最终能跳起来抓到它。3. Recruit the whole move!
3. 练习完整的动作！It‘s an easy mistake to only recruit the muscles active in the first faces of a dyno, forgetting the muscles that come in to play later, in the actual grabbing-face. The reason for this is simple: you won’t use the contact-muscles if you can‘t do the catch... Recruitment-wise, the best is if you can reach the hold and put weight on it, if only for a micro second, since, this way, all the necessary muscle fibers gets to play. If you can’t reach the hold by your own power, use someone else?s, or the rope. You can also, with support, try reversing the move.
人们经常犯的错误是只调用动态开始阶段用到的肌肉，忘记了之后真正要抓点时要调用的肌肉。犯这个毛病的原因很简单：如果你抓不到目标点，就不会使用到触点肌肉...明智的协调办法是当你能够抓住目标点并且在手上吃力，即使只有千分之一秒的时间，这样也会协调到所有必用的肌肉。如果你自己不能抓到目标点，可以使用一些帮助，比如绳子。也可以在别人的帮助下，试着重复这个动作。4. Push with your feet!
4.用脚推！Don?t forget most of the power in a dyno originates from your legs. Try putting as much weight as possible on the foot holds, to the point where you actually skids off them (paragraph 7). It?s most often an advantage using as soft shoes as possible, since you this way get the most out of the muscles in your feet. Remember, those muscles are also recruitable!
要牢记在动态中绝大部分的力量都是来自于你的双腿。试着把重量尽可能多的放在支撑脚上，就是之后你实际要跳起的脚点。穿越软的鞋子越好，因为这会让你最有效的运用脚部肌肉。记住，这些肌肉也是要协调起来运用的！5. Use "the bungee cord" to your advantage!
5.好好利用“弹簧”动作To gain momentum, you should start every dyno with a vertical motion, up and then down, to kind of extend the bungee cord, to be able to use its power to be catapulted (hopefully) toward the hold you?re aiming for. If you don?t have enough room for this, it?s also possible to gain momentum by swinging side to side.
为了获得更多的跳跃力量，你应该在每次做动态之前先做垂直方向上的运动，上然后下，类似弹簧延伸压缩，这种力量会把你往目标点的方向“弹射”（希望如此）出去。如果你没有足够的空间做弹簧动作，也可以依靠摆动身体来获得冲力。6. Long, even applying of power
6. 持续，即使是在发力的时候A common mistake is to use too much power in the first faces of the move. Doing this, it?s very easy to lose contact with the holds, and hence the only way to keep the momentum, in the last and often deciding face. Sometimes it?s best not to use all the fuel at once...
通常的错误是在动态的一开始就用掉太多的能量。这样做非常容易让你脱离手点，而抓着手点是最终保持冲力的唯一途径也是决定要素。有时候持续发力而不是一下子就把力量用完会让你更容易完成动态...7. Use the lower hand to the maximum
7.最大限度的使用低处手点Before you?ve managed to literally pull the lower hand off the hold, you haven?t tried how much power you can apply to it. This is, of course, not true for jugs, but on smaller holds you must push toward the limit of what?s possible to gain maximum effect.
在你准备松开低处的手点时，你并没有尝试还可以抓多久。这一点并不适用于那种大手点，而是手点比较小时，你必须更用力更持久的抓住手点，以便获得最大的效果。8. Dyno inwards
8. 向内做动态A problem when catching is that it?s often hard to keep close enough to the rock, but swing out. A way of solving this is to dyno inwards by starting with more or less straight arms leaning out from the rock, and then through yourself inwards, upwards.
抓点时经常遇到的一个问题是人总是摆出来，很难足够靠近岩壁。解决这个问题的一个办法就是首先伸直手臂倾斜着离开岩壁，然后向内向上跳跃。9. Over- or under curve?
9. 运动弧线：向上弯曲还是向下弯曲？When dynoing diagonally, it?s important to chose an over- or under curve. It?s impossible to design a rule for when to use which, since the possible hold placement combinations are infinite. Simply try what feels best for you. Maybe you should just go straight for the hold!
当斜向做动态时，选择动作的路线是向上的弧线还是向下的弧线也是重要的一点。因为支点的位置各不相同，所以关于你选择用那一种方式也没有定论。最简单的办法就是去尝试你认为最好的。或许直直的出手做动态也不错哦！10. Tick-marks
10. 标记目标点To mark the hold you?re going for with a bright white chalk-line is an underestimated method to improve your timing. Don?t just dust some chalk on the hold, use clear, bright tick-marks, you won?t be disappointed. If the hold is somewhat hidden you can also draw arrows etc. to make it easier to know where to aim.
把你想要抓住的目标点用白色粉笔做上鲜明的标记，虽然这常常是被低估的一个方法，但它的确会帮助到你。不要只是随便的在目标点上拍点镁粉，要画上清晰、明显的标记。此举不会让你失望的。如果目标点隐藏于某处，你可以画上箭头等等，让你做动态时能更容易的知道目标点在何处。11. Hyperventilate
11.强力呼吸Experiments show you?ll actually gain short term power by hyperventilating. It has probably something to do with adrenaline being freed, and that you, hence, get a bit mad... Try 4-5 fast deep breaths and go for it!
试验表明人们的确在强力呼吸之后能获得短暂的能量。这可能与肾上腺素被释放有关，而你也因此变得有些疯狂...尝试四五次深呼吸然后再去做动态！12. Timing & Dead-points
12.时机和“死点” （dead-point “死点”，动作曲线的最高点，这时身体在不到一秒的时间呈无重状态，然后开始下坠。--- 译者注）A successful catch is often about being able to keep one foot to the rock, and it?s often also important to reach the hold at the dead-point, that is in a kind of weightless state, neither going up or down. This is especially true when you?re dynoing sideways or to a side pull. If you use to much power and still are going upwards/sideways when you get the hold, it?s very easy to swing out and lose balance.
当成功的抓住下一个手点时，经常是要让一只脚仍然踩在岩壁上，同时在“死点”抓住手点也至关重要，此时身体处于一种无重状态，也是身体跳起运动的最高点。当你从侧边或者侧拉动作开始做动态时，这一点尤为有效。如果在你抓住手点时，身体还在向上或者向旁边运动，你就非常容易甩出去并且失去平衡。13. Contact-time and grip-positioning
13. 抓点时间和位置The clue is to make the contact-time as long as possible when you get your fingers on the hold. Doing this you allow the muscles to be maximally recruited, and to reach a flexing crimp-position. First the fingers bend upwards, and then downwards, all in a fraction of a second. A special trick is to through your head back to extend the dead-point for a couple of 1/100 of a second.
诀窍在于尽可能延长手指抓点的时间。这样做会最大限度的调用肌肉，让身体成伸展之前的蜷曲状。抓着岩点的手指首先向上弯曲，然后向下弯曲，整个过程不超过一秒钟。一个特殊的提示是把头向后仰以增加百分之一秒的抓点时间。14. Practice makes perfect
14. 熟能生巧Last, but not least, it?s the amount of dedicated training you?ve put in that will decide. Your body needs to learn the movement so to speak, for the muscles to be able to interact perfectly. You can?t think of all the advice above when you?re trying a dyno, you must work them one by one, until you do it naturally. Now, fly baby fly.?
最后还有重要的一点，你在练习上投入的多少决定了你的提高程度。你的身体需要学习如何做动作，也就是说，肌肉要可以做到完美的相互作用。当尝试一个动态时，你不可能思考以上的所有建议，你必须循序渐进，熟能生巧。
现在，飞吧，亲，飞吧！ |
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