[转帖]先锋收绳的要点 先锋, 要点, 转帖

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转自：中国户外资料网http://www.8264.com/22868.html


Get Down - treading the anchors and lowering safely from sport routs   By Dave Pegg（王宏祥译）

It could be your first 5.6 or your first 5.14, but the route doesn't end with a victory yell at the anchors -you also have to get back down. This anticlimax leads to most sport-climbing accidents: The route is "over,"so the leader and belayer stop concentrating; one of them make a mistake, and the guy on the rock ends up splattered on the ground.

　　这可能是你第一条5.6或5.14，但路线并非在你到达顶点接受欢呼时就结束了，你还必须要回到地面上来。此时攀登者[size=+0]和确保者都很容易将注意力分散并不再保持联系，这也正是运动攀登最常发生意外的步骤。

　　Treading and lowering from the anchors at the top of a sport route is simple. But the process should not become thoughtless. Know the drill, and put the same amount of focus into getting down safely as you do into your climbing. Otherwise your next big send could be your last.

　　从anchor下降是一件很简单的事情，但并不表示你可以轻率为之。反覆练习、并且集中注意力，直到你安全下降至地面。不然的话，下一次可能就是你最后一次攀岩[size=+0]了。

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Know the drill. A standard lowering station consists of two anchors. If these are equipped with carabiners or open-shut hangers, simply clip in the rope, or drop it over them, and lower.
　　Know the drill标准的下降点会有两个膨胀锚桩，如果上面有无锁钩环的话，直接将绳锁扣入钩环然后下降（当然，你要确定钩环是安全的！）。
　　If not, you'll need to tread the rope through a metal chain, ring, or large ring-shaped bolt hanger (never tread rope through webbing or a regular bolt hanger). Start by attaching yourself to both anchors with two quickdraws. The quickdraws should be clipped into the belay loop or tie-in point of your harness with their gates facing in opposite directions. Ideally, the quickdraws should also be long enough to let you hang down, rather then pull out on the anchors. When clipping into a chain, leave the bottom link free for the rope (figure 1).

　　如果不是，那你就必须将绳子穿过铁链、Ｏ型环（龙洞多是此种）、或大孔的耳片（绝对不要将绳子穿过正常大小的耳片内，这样会严重损伤你的绳子！）。首先，先用两个快扣将你自己挂在两个anchor上，而这两个快扣在你吊带上必须是反向的。理想上快扣绳环的长度必须提供你活动足够的空间。而将快扣扣入铁链时，记得预留末端铁环给绳子用。（如图一）

图一

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Now reel up about five feet of rope. Tie a figure-eight knot in this loop, and clip it to the belay loop or tie-in point of your harness, using a screwgate biner to be on the safe side (figure 2). This important step stops you from dropping the rope and keeps you backed up to lower bolts[size=+0] should the lowering station fail. 　　接下来，拿起约1.5米的绳子，打个双八，并用有锁钩环扣上你的吊带（如图二），这个重要的动作可以使你在下降点意外脱落时，还可以被下面的膨胀锚桩拉住。

图二

　　Next untie your climbing knob, tread the station, and tie back into your harness normally (figure 3). Release the figure-eight knot holding the backup loop, and wait for your partner to "take"you with a reassuring tug (figure 4). Finally, unclip the quickdraws from the station and lower.
　　然后将绑在你身上的绳头解开，穿过Ｏ型环或是铁链，最后将绳头重新绑回你的吊带（如图三）。将备用之绳结[size=+0]解开，并通知你的绳伴将绳子收紧（如图四）。直到你感到绳子已收紧后，将快扣解开，然后下降至地面。

图三

图四

　　Avoid the blunders
     Got that? Good …but not so fast. Now let's look at the essential safety checks.

2007-12-13 9:58:24

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First, never take the leader off belay. Who's to say he won't unclip from the station and lean back on the rope while you're still peeing in the bushes. 　　
     首先，绝不要让自己处于没有确保的状态下。

　　Examine the station. If you don't completely trust it or have to retreat from a single anchor, back yourself up by abandoning a single carabiner on the protection bolt immediately below the station and leaving it clipped as you lower to the ground.

　　测试一下下降点，若你不相信这个下降点或是只用单一个anchor，可以在下一个bolt多加一个快扣当作备用支点。

　　Double check your are securely attached to the rope before you unclip from a station and commit to a lower. Is the rope through the tie-in point of your harness? Is your cilmbing knot correctly tied? Is your harness doubled back?

　　开始下降、解开快扣前再次确认绳结[size=+0]是否打对、吊带是否有回扣等细节。

　　Communicate with your partner. The crucial exchange is, "Have you got me?"Wait for your partner's response and until you feel the tension in the rope at your waist before you commit to the lower (figure 4). If direct communication is impossible, have a prearranged system: One rope tun means, "Clipped to the station."Two sharp tugs: "Have you got me?"Three sharp tugs from your belayer: "Got you."

　　与你的绳伴保持沟通。若无法直接对话，应事先找好其他连络方式（例如以拉绳子几下来代表某些特定事情）

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去阳朔前学习一下，在阳朔再实践一下。