Chris Sharma Interview in Beijing Chris, Beijing, Interview, Sharma

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Chris Sharma Interview
Chris Sharma 采访
With Bob Keaty, March 28, 2010. Ole Gym in Beijing
采访: Bob Keaty 2010年3月28日 北京奥莱攀岩馆
B:
Hi Chris and welcome to China and Beijing.
   您好，Chris！欢迎来到中国，来到北京。
C:
Yeah, it’s good to be here.
  是啊！来到这里真是太好了！
B:
The weather’s great.
It’s good that you can see it at a good time.
    天气真好，你能在这里看到这样天气真是太幸运了。
C:
It’s a nice day.
   天气真的不错。
B:
So, I’d like to ask you a few questions about this trip.
You’re here mainly with Evolve to see the Chinese climbing scene.
Maybe first of all tell what you know about China.
Have you climbed much here before, what areas have you been to?
   我想就你本次之行问一些问题。你这次来主要是和Evolve看一下中国的攀岩现状。你觉得中国怎么样，以前在中国攀过岩吗？都在哪些地方呢？
C:
I haven’t climbed here extensively, mainly just in Yangshuo.
I was here for a few weeks last year.

Yeah, it was good, a really good time.
It’s really good quality rock, good routes, tons of potential for opening more lines.
Definitely!
我没有在中国很多地方攀过岩，大部时间都是在阳朔，去年我在那呆过几个星期。
感觉真的不错，很开心。 岩壁的质量也非常好，线路也开的不错，我觉得还有很大的开新线的余地。绝对的！
B:
Great!
How does it compare to some of the more famous areas that you travel to and climb at regularly?
    不错！和那些你去过的更有名的地方比起来呢？
C:
I think it’s world-class for sure.
It’s a world class climbing area and it seems like it is only going to get more so, with the more sectors that open up and more routes that get bolted.
It should be cool to see and the more Chinese climbers that are coming and climbing it’s just going to get better.
It’s just going to give them an opportunity to grow as climbers, to have that amazing resource.
   我觉得阳朔绝对是世界级的。 而且能爬的线路越来越多了。如果能看到更多的中国攀岩者来攀岩那就更好了，那里有很多机会可以利用这个资源成为一个真正的攀岩者。
B:
Yeah, it is early days in the Chinese climbing scene and it seems to be growing a lot more interesting.
You are a part of keeping that interest going here, of course.
Have you climbed with many Chinese climbers?
    是啊！对于中国来说攀岩还只是一个刚刚开始的运动，在将来会有更多人的对攀岩感兴趣。当然，你也是其中的原因之一。你和多少中国攀岩者一起攀爬过呢？
C:
I’ve climbed with several, you know like Abon and Paul.
It was good.
I think there is going to be some really good climbers coming from China because there is a big talent pool.
It will be interesting to see in the next ten years, what Chinese climbers are doing, for sure.
It’s going to be exciting to see.
   我和几个一起爬过，你知道的，阿邦和邱江。跟他们爬的很开心。我觉得中国会有很多非常好的攀岩者，在中国有攀岩天分的人很多。在将来的十年里你绝对会看到中国攀岩者们的所作所为，那将会是一件令人振奋的事情。
B:
Any comments on where they’re at.
I mean, you’ve seen them climb：Areas they are good at, areas where they need to improve, their approach to climbing.
   你对他们现在的情况怎么看呢？你看过他们攀岩：他们的优缺点，训练方式等等。
C:
I was really impressed with some of the routes that Abon had done in Yangshuo.
I think in general it is hard taking the first steps to opening new routes, you know.
It’s difficult, but the more foreigners that are coming and showing them what is possible than they will start riding with that idea.
That is always the most critical part, just starting out, not knowing which direction to take it.
There are tons of foreigners going through Yangshuo and like myself, showing them what the possibilities are.
Once they see that they will have a lot of opportunities to explore high levels.
   阿邦在阳朔攀爬的一些线路让我印象非常深刻。一般来说我觉得刚开始开线并不容易，会遇到一些困难，但是有一些外国人来到这里并告诉他们一些可能性然后他们将这些可能性予以实施。最关键的是，就这么开始之后，就不知道该怎么办了。有很多很多的外国人来到阳朔告诉他们有哪些可能性，一旦他们见过了，他们就会有很多机会更进一步的去发现。
B:
Yeah, you’re right.
There are a lot of super strong Chinese climbers but we do not see a lot of Chinese opening new lines.
There are a couple people like Spiderman Paul down in Yangshuo, there are some around Hangzhou, Beijing areas but it is mainly the traveling foreigners who are coming and opening those new lines.
You think it is just going to take time before…..
   对，你说的没错。中国有很多很强的攀岩者，但是我们却不经常看到新的线路。在阳朔有很多像邱江那样的人，杭州、北京都有,但是开线的主要还是来中国旅行的外国人。你觉得是不是时间的问题呢…..
C:
Yeah, I think you just need to get that bug.
You know, opening routes just takes time.
It just takes someone just going out and doing it basically.
I guess they just have to go out and start exploring.
For me too, I didn’t start opening routes for a long time, until I had climbed all the routes that were around and I had to start bolting new routes because there just wasn’t anything available.
You know, I think it is just a natural evolution, Step-by-step people are just going to get more psyched.
I think climbing is really an addictive thing; the more you climb the more you love it, the more you want to climb the harder you want to climb so I think it is something that evolves over the years.
是吧，你只是说到了其中的一部分。你应该知道的，开线是很耗时间的，需要人出去开线。我想中国这里也是需要人们出去找岩壁。对我来说也是一样，一开始我有很长时间都没有出去开线，直到我把我把线路都爬完了，我不得不去开一些新线路爬。这是很自然的事情，一步一步慢慢来。我觉得攀岩真的是一件很上瘾的事情：爬的越多，瘾越大，爬的越多，想挑战的难度也越高，这是这些年来一直不断发展的事实。

I’ve been climbing for 16 years and I’m still discovering new ideas and stuff, where I want to take climbing.
I think it takes time to mature that spirit of exploration in climbing and really know where you want to go and how you want to take climbing forward.
我攀岩已经16年了，可是我还在不断的寻求攀爬的新的东西和新的想法。这个是需要时间去探求这种攀爬精神并且知道你在做什么和怎么去进一步的发展攀岩。

There is bouldering and sport climbing, traditional climbing and mountaineering so I guess in China there is a little bit of everything, you know, or a lot of everything.
It just depends on whoever is psyched to do it.
5:20
攀岩有抱石，先锋攀爬，传统和登山，我想在中国，每样都会有点吧，或者是很多点。 就看是谁在推动这方面的发展了。

B:
So just be patient you reckon and the more experience they have the more they will get into the adventure side of putting up new lines.
If we had the strong Chinese climbers putting up a lot of lines, that would be, that could really turn out to be awesome.
     所以就像你说的，让我们耐心的等待，经历的越多得到的越多，当然他们也会更进一步的推动攀岩的发展。如果我们有一些非常棒的中国攀岩者推动攀岩的发展，那么中国攀岩会是非常值得期待的。
C:
Yeah, it is a real liberating feeling to go out and open a new route you know.
But, it’s kind of intimidating at first especially if you have just been climbing for a couple of years; to really take matters into your own hands and open a new sector.
I think those kind of things just develop gradually.
I think definitely we’ll see as years goes by, people finding new areas, you know.
Maybe up till now people have been relying on foreigners coming to bolt new routes, but they’ll just to find new areas.
It takes motivation to make them real climbing areas.
It’s up to the climbers here to really develop those places.
6:30
没错，要知道出去开新线是一种真正的解放的感觉，但是一开始也只是模仿罢了，尤其是如果只是爬了一两年的。要真的成为一个开线者是需要一些亲身体会的，那些都会慢慢的循序渐进的发展。随着时间的发展，肯定会找到新的地方，现在也许一些人太依赖这些来中国开线的外国人了，他们需要的是去发现新的地方，要将新的地方发展成攀岩地区是需要一些行动的。

B:
Great!
Let’s talk then a little about the climbing lifestyle.
It’s just starting in China, there really are just a few people who do it full-time.
Very few full-time and not a lot who get that much time out on the rock even though they’d like to.
In the West the climbing lifestyle has been around a lot longer.
A lot of people have it and have options:
you can work in gear companies, you can be a sponsored climber, you can live near good areas, you know, work a part-time job somewhere and climb.
You can do that for a lot of years, all the way through your twenties no problem.
And it reminds me about a comment Jeff Lowe made one time about the best climber is the person having the most fun.
But there is also a lot of pushing grades and trying to compete a little bit.
So you’ve been in the climbing lifestyle ever since you were a teenager.
Maybe some comments about what it’s like and what you have gotten out of it so far.
7:30

非常好，让我们讨论一下攀岩的生活方式吧。攀岩在中国也是只刚刚开始而已，只有一少部分人是全职做攀岩的，非常少的一部分，即使他们非常喜欢也只是可以花很少的时间在攀岩上。在西方攀岩的生活方式要比中国发展的时间长，很多人以攀岩为生并且有不同的选择：可以在攀岩装备公司工作，可以是一个赞助攀岩者，可以在好的攀岩地方生活很久，就像你知道的，在某个地方做兼职并且攀岩，可以一直这样做，至少在你的20岁年头没有问题。这让我想起 Jeff Lowe 曾经说过最好的攀岩者就是真正的体会到攀岩的乐趣，当然也会有不少的竞争。你从10几岁开始就这样生活了，可以跟我说说你的想法和到目前为止你所得到了些什么呢？
C:
Well, I think the cool thing about climbing is that it is a sport, but it is also much more than a sport, you know.
In other sports, take tennis for example, outside of competition (the sport) doesn’t exist.
But climbing, it’s kind of a lifestyle sport.
Actually, it’s not really inherently competitive.
Actually, competitions are kind of weird in climbing.
You’re not really competing with another person, you’re not really competing with the rock.
You’re just trying to work together with the rock.
It’s like communication, you know, you are trying to read the rock.
I guess as human beings we have the urge to try and quantify things and to find out who’s best and that is normal.
But I think the beauty of climbing is way more profound than that.
Just going traveling and exploring is much more of a lifestyle thing.
   嗯，我想最棒的事是攀岩是一项运动但又不只是一项运动。在其他运动中，比如说，网球，除了比赛（运动项目）之外就没有了。但是攀岩，是一种生活方式的运动。实际上，攀岩并不是真正意义上的竞争，对我来说，攀岩比赛很奇怪，你并不是跟另外一个人比赛，不是和岩壁比赛，你是尝试着和岩壁一起合作，是一种交流，尝试着去读懂岩壁。我觉得作为人的本性我们总是急着去确认谁是最棒的，
对我来说攀岩的魅力之处就是攀岩比那还要更激动人心。去旅行与探索，这不仅仅是一种生活方式。
In other sports, like in gymnastics for example, maybe the ultimate goal for a gymnast is to win the gold medal at the Olympics.
After they do that there isn’t really a way to go on.
You don’t see gymnasts in their 50’s striving to do more back-flips.
I think climbing is cool that way because it’s our lives, it’s a lifestyle as much as it is a sport.
We can just travel and see new places and share great experiences with our friends.
It is a really enriching sport in that way.
We get to be in beautiful natural environments.
For me climbing is such an amazing sport because it is something we can do for our whole lives at varying intensities and still have it be really rewarding.
  其他的运动，比如说体操，也许最终的目标就是在奥运会上拿金牌，拿到金牌后可能就会失去目标。你应该没见过一个50岁的人还练体操或是后空翻的吧。攀岩相对于运动来说更是一种生活方式，我们可以去没去过的地方旅行，和朋友们分享不同的经历。如果说是运动的话，那也是一项非常丰富的运动。我们可以享受美丽的大自然。对我来说攀岩是一项无以言语的运动，因为攀岩让我们的一生中有不同程度的挑战，并且永远都会得到回报！
In the same way, the level is always going to be going higher and higher.
We look back 15 years and the hardest routes from that time aren’t that hard today in comparison and maybe in 15 years it will be the same.
So in this way it is just about your own personal experience.
It’s about trying your hardest and having this experience about overcoming your fears and your limitations.
So, anyone can have that experience.
Someone who is trying to climb a 5.10 and someone who is trying to climb a 5.15 can really have the same experience climbing.
It is about really digging deep, trying to surpass your limits, and be in a beautiful place.
The grades are not important in that way.
Of course it is kind of nice to have grades so we can orientate ourselves when we go climbing we know what routes we are climbing, we can choose routes that are good for us. It is also fun to know what is the hardest route in the world.
But, the true essence of climbing is just something personal and being in a beautiful place in nature.
11:15
同样的，水平也不会不断的提高，我们回头看15年前对于我们来说最难的线路，对于现在的我们来说一点也不难，同样15年后我们还是会做这样做比较。所以更确切的说是你的个人经历，是让你不断的尝试更难的并且拥有这样的经历去突破你的恐惧与极限，所以每个人都可以有这样的经历，不管是在爬5.10还是5.15，对于个人来说都一样。，真正来说是怎么样去突破你的个人极限，达到一种意境。等级对于那些来说并不重要，当然如果有等级也是一件好事，当我们去攀爬的时候我们可以更好的定位自己，我们可以选择对我们更好的线路，而且知道世界上最难的线路也是一件很有趣的事情。但是，攀岩的本质是对于个人来说身处在美丽的大自然中。
B:
It is certainly what brought me to climbing and kept me there.
I started climbing also when I was about 16 and I haven’t concentrated on it as intensely because I have done a lot of other things, but, at the end of the day, I find that I always have to come back to climbing.
As you say, it is just so rich.
There is just so much to offer there, that the experience is all.
Yes, some of us have more limitations than others, so I guess I get to get a lot out of it.
   这就是我开始攀岩和继续攀岩的原因。我也是16岁开始攀岩的，当时不是很专心，因为我还做了很多其他的事情，最后我觉得我还是不得不会回来攀岩。就像你说的，攀岩太富有了。这里有太多太多经历。是，我们当中有很多人被其他的东西限制着，但是迟早有一天也会跳出来的。
I guess there are always questions about training. It is the opposite side of what you said, maybe.
Instead of just climbing, I know a lot of the local climbers train pretty hard.
What is your take on that?
11:58
  我想关于训练永远都有问不完的问题。也许和你说的正好相反，除了只是攀岩，我知道很多当地的岩友都非常刻苦的训练，你有什么看法？
C:
Well I think whatever motivates you.
I think it’s great to train and stuff.
As long as you are enjoying it or you are doing it because you are enjoying it.
I think that is the key thing.
Climbing is really about having a good time, you know.
It’s not like we are doing something profound in the world like saving people form starvation.
We go climbing because it gives us a good feeling.
You have other mentalities, like some people try to put into a box like a typical sport.
Like you have to train, discipline, you have a coach cracking the whip.
If that works for people and they’re enjoying it, okay.
I think that is fine.
I think that if it’s something forced on you then…… whatever works for people.
   恩，我觉得是不管什么能够激励你，我觉得训练也是一件好事，只要你乐在其中，你训练只是因为你享受这样的过程，这才是关键，攀岩就是为了开心。不是说像做解救世界上饥饿的人那样的公益事业，我们去攀岩是因为攀岩给我们的感觉，心态不一样，就像有些人把拳击当成一种经典的运动，你训练，遵守规则，有教练不断的督促你，如果那样你也开心，当然没有问题。如果是被强迫这样的话….只要对于那个人说没有问题也可以。
For me, you know, I’ve been able to continue being psyched, actually more psyched every year, more motivated.
It’s just been my own personal relationship with climbing.
I’ve never forced myself to go climbing because I felt like I needed to go and train even though I didn’t want to.
I think you see some people trying to do that even when they are not enjoying it.
These people kind of have a tendency to stop climbing after a few years because, you know.
Obviously, if you are not having fun and there is some kind of external pressure on them then it is easy to burn-out.
So I think climbing is not a typical sport in that way and it is something we can do for our whole lives.
There are moments where we are not going to be that strong and there are moments when we are going to be stronger and that goes same for our motivation.
对于我来说，我可以延续我的攀岩的激情，甚至每年不断的增加，更多的动力，只是因为我个人的关系，我从来不会强迫我自己去攀岩或者强迫我自己在我不想训练的时候训练。我想你见过有些人去做一些他们不想做的训练的人吧，这些人几年之后基本上都停止了攀爬。很明显，如果你体会不到里面的乐趣而给自己很多压力的话，会很快就崩溃并放弃的。所以我认为攀岩是经典的一项可以一生都享受的运动。会有些时候我们没有那么厉害，但是也会有我们变得更厉害的时候。对于我们来说，我们应该把这些都当做动力。
I think it is important to listen to that and for me my energy comes from being motivated and psyched.
If I’m not psyched then I don’t even really try hard.
I can’t even really climb hard.
When I am psyched then yeah, I don’t know if you want to call it training, I just keep trying my projects over and over again.
It’s all good.
It’s just your attitude, where you are trying to go and what you’re trying to get out of the sport and why you are doing it.
我想听到我说我的能力是来自于我的动力和激情应该很重要吧，如果我没有激情我不会去做任何努力的，我也不会攀爬更高的难度，当我充满激情的时候，我不知道你们会不会称呼这样为训练，我会一遍又一遍的攀爬我要完成的线路。无论怎么样都可以，最重要的是你的态度，你想怎么做，你想从这项运动得到什么，为什么你要玩这项运动，等等。
14:38
B:
Great!
That is a good point of view and another way of looking at it.
It makes it a lot more profound, as a part of your life, an important part, a meaningful part for yourself.
We talked briefly about injuries yesterday.
I asked you about older people; but, there are a lot of young climbers we see in the gyms around here who hit it pretty hard and they really do struggle with injuries; tendons mainly as you know.
You spoke to it awhile ago, but have you had injuries, do you have a certain way to look out for them is it just an awareness or something?
It is a big part of the sport for these younger people going at it too hard trying to catch-up and get better.
   说的太好了，真是说到点上了，而且我们可以从另外一个角度去看攀岩。对攀岩的体会更加深刻，并且成为生活的一个重要的，有意义的部分。昨天我们简短的讨论了一下受伤的事，
我问了你有关那些年龄稍微大一点的人，但是，也有很多很多的在岩馆的年轻人在和伤痛纠结着，大部分都是韧带问题。很久以前你说过，你也受过伤，你能找到问题所在吗？还是只是意识或是其他的一些什么东西？ 对于一些想要赶上别人或者变强的年轻人来说这是非常重要的一部分。
15:30
C:
I think you have to warm up good and have to know when to say when, when maybe you need to take a break.
I know from my personal experience that if my mind isn’t aligned with my body say like, take for example that if you feel obligated to train, but your mind isn’t really on that same path, well then it is real easy to injure yourself.
I think if you are really focused then you are not really going to get injured.
You are going to be in tune with your body and know when to stop.
Having said that, yeah, anyone can get injured just straining yourself or trying too hard because obviously we are psyched.
We want to get better and we want to try harder, we want to stick that hold.
I guess we just have to warm up, do some stretching, just really listen to the body again and being intelligent:
like if you have some pain, you know.
Recently, I had some pain in my finger; it wasn’t a serious thing because I had to be careful and maybe take it easy a little bit and it got better.
But, if I had not done that and just said, ‘I don’t care’ and ‘I’m going to try harder’, then maybe I could have done some real damage, you know.
I think it is just listening to the body and when you feel that little bit of pain, then you have to take it easy and respect that instead of pushing too hard and regretting it afterwards.
17:20
我想首先你必须充分热身并且要知道什么时候要休息。据我个人经历而言我知道如果我的思想和我的身体不平衡，我会知道的。举例来说，如果我觉得我很想要训练，但是我的思想却不是那样，那样的话就很容易受伤。如果你的身心一致，那么就不会受伤。思想要和身体协调，知道什么时候该停止。这样说吧，谁都或在过重的训练情况下受伤的，因为我们容易受刺激，我们想要变的更好，更强，我们想要一直保持这样。我想还是要充分热身，做一些拉伸，倾听你的身体，做明智的选择：如果你那里疼痛，你要知道。 最近，我的手指有点疼，不过不是很严重因为我一直很小心，而且很放松，所以慢慢好起来了，但是如果我不这样做而是告诉自己“无所谓，我要变的更强”，也许现在我的手指就完了。我想还是要好好的倾听你的身体，如果觉得有点疼，尝试着慢慢来，不要过于着急而过后悔不当初。
B:
Yes, that is certainly what happens a lot.
Let’s change the subject a little bit more again.
I understand you’ve been with Evolv shoes since they first started.
Is that right?
Since 2006?
   是啊，这样事情经常发生，让我们再换个话题吧，我知道你在Evolve 攀岩鞋初期就加入他们了，对吗？ 从2006年开始的？
C:
Yeah, I guess like 2005.
   恩，应该差不多是 2005年吧！
B:
Tell us about the company, your role in it.
Tell us about the product.
  跟我说说这个公司吧，你的角色是什么？产品怎么样？

C:
It’s really cool working with Evolve, you know.
I’ve pretty much been with them since the outset.
It’s really cool just to work with them closely on the shoe designs.
For me it’s really like a dream that I can design my own product.
Design my own climbing shoes just the way I want them.
They are very motivated, very receptive to my input; it’s a small company and has a family feel.
I think it’s an exciting time for Evolv and I think it is going to continue to be a good thing.
Our products are really good right now and they are only going to be getting better, to have better designs.
And like the name says, we are just going to continue evolving.
We are just trying to put out the best quality product, the best service and to be true to like everything we are talking about, to this climbing lifestyle, to really embody that.
19:00
   和Evolve 工作真的非常棒，我从初期开始就和他们一起工作了，能够近距离接触攀岩鞋的设计真是太好了，对我来说设计自己的攀岩鞋就像一个梦，尤其是设计出和我想象的完全一样的鞋。他们对我的想法非常的积极配合并且很尊重这些想法；公司虽然不大，但是有家的感觉。 对于Evolve来说是令人激动的时刻，而且我认为会是一件非常好的事。我们的产品现在已经很好了，并以后会变的更好，设计也会更好。就像他的名字，我们会不断发展。我们会尽我们的努力做出做最好质量的产品，最好的服务并且遵从之前我们所说的，我们是为了表达出攀岩这种生活方式。
B:
Great!
The climbing scene is growing quickly in China and of course a lot of people read about you and look up to you and it is really great that you are here to let us meet you, certainly to talk.
We’ll put this out there so that, especially the younger climbers can get to know you a little better.
Any plans on coming back?
Think we’ll see you more often on this side of the world?
   太好了，中国的攀岩氛围在不断的增长，当然有很多人知道你，通过各种途径查找相关你的消息，能够见到你真是太好了，还有我们的谈话也非常开心。我在这之后，尤其是那些年轻的攀岩者们会更了解你。 你什么时候再回来呢？在这里我们会经常见到你吗？
C:
I think so, yeah.
I’d like to come back to Yangshuo and try these projects that I bolted like Necessary Dumpling.
Yeah, just come back and do some more climbing.
Maybe at some other places.
So, I don’t know exactly when, but, yeah I’ll definitely be back sooner than later.
  应该会吧。我非常想再去阳朔完成那些线路。回来爬更多的线路，也想去中国其他的地方。我不知道具体什么时候，但是早晚我会再回来的。
B:
Great and I hope in addition to Yangshuo we have a couple other areas open, hope there are a lot of classic or classic potential lines either up or ready to put up because there are people looking around all over China.
It’s a big place.
    太好了，我也希望在阳朔能够有更多的地方开线，并且希望找出并开出更多或是更多潜在的路线，因为在全国各地都有人在开发更多的地方。中国是一个很大的地方。
C:
Yeah, well I look forward to coming back and having energy and time for actually climbing more.
    恩，我也期待着下次再来中国并且有更多力气爬更多的线。
B:
Great!
Thanks a lot Chris.
    好！ 谢谢你 Chris。
C:
Okay, right on.
   没问题！
B:
Enjoy your stay here.
    希望你在这里玩的开心。
C:
Thanks, it’s good to be here.
   谢谢，能来这里真是太好了。