Rock Climbing Training(中文翻译在2楼） Training, Rock, Climbing, 中文, 翻译

fede

Following are some training routines that have been developed through mine own experience as well as that of our friends. I’m not a professional climbing teacher.
In my perspective, the single most important thing to keep in mind is that each of us has a very unique and complex body. To be most effective, your training program starts with a critical and complete assessment of your strengths and weaknesses along with your goals for climbing. If you use this realistic list as a filter for all the information available, hopefully you will end up with an individual program that is ideally suited to you. There are now many sources of information out there that pertain to training for climbing. Try to keep in mind who you are and who the information is targeted to, a person who can afford to climb and train full time or the weekend athlete who wants to make some gains in strength and confidence.

Tips on “How to Improve Your Rock Climbing Ability”

1) Climb More: The best thing you can do to get better at rock climbing is to climb more. Try to find your route and climb it, like this you can improve your climbing skills - such as balance, finger strength,footwork, etc.


2) Practice Down Climbing (go and come back on the wall): If you want to get better at climbing, then you have to practice down climbing.Why? Down climbing helps you focus on the one thing most climbers, especially newbie climbers, often forget - your feet. When you down climb, the first thing you think about is: "Where am I going to put my foot?"


3) Variety: Variety is the spice of life. It is also the key to getting better at whatever you do. Always try to climb something new and different - work on different routes, climb at different crags, go to different gyms. This helps you to improve a couple of things:

Your route-reading ability - how you look at a new route and figure out how to climb it.

Your repertoire of rock climbing moves - every new route will train your muscles in different ways. If you only climb the same routes over and over again, your body won't learn anything new. Add variety to your training sessions. Try different styles of climbing. You can work any of the following suggestions into your training program:


*Climb using only one hand or only one leg
*Practice traversing using feet only - this is great for improving your balance and your footwork.
*Climb using first touch - that means once you have placed your hand or foot, you can't shift the position, even if it is awkward. This helps you think about how you use a hold so that you optimize your moves and reduce the number of unnecessary moves
*Boulder - do this with a group of friends and give each other boulder problems to work on. Bouldering tends to involve a shorter, more powerful sequence of moves and this is guaranteed to help improve your footwork and your strength.
*Do laps - up climb and down climb (or go and come back) on a route that you can complete but is still somewhat challenging. Make sure you feel like you are working out when you do laps. This helps to build your endurance.

4) Learn from the Others: The benefit of climbing in a group is that you get to see how others climb. It gives you ideas for new moves that you can try when working out a problem on the wall. Sometimes another climber may have a better move that conserves more energy and it makes sense for you to copy that move than to stick to the move that you worked out yourself.
When you climb in a group, there will be climbers that are better than you and climbers who are weaker than you. Regardless of their climbing ability, you should watch them all climb because there are things you can learn from a weaker climber as well as a stronger climber. With a stronger climber, it's obvious what you can learn from watching them climb. Even if you aren't physically capable of making the moves just yet, your brain is always storing information for future use.
Weaker climbers remind us how best to conserve energy when climbing because a lot of the moves they use do not require as much strength purely because they don't have the physical capability of making powerful moves.

5) Try Hard: Always have a project route (or traverse on the wall) that you are working on. What's a project route? It is basically a route you are trying to finish. It is usually a grade or two above the grade you are comfortably climbing. The route should be sufficiently challenging but not completely out of your reach.
It helps you to refine your climbing skills and work on an area that you are weak at. With your project route, it may be a particular crimp, or sloper, or pinch that you just can't hold, or it could be a short series of moves that is beyond your current physical ability.

6) Strength Training: There are several ways to go about this, but I suggest you two ways to improve your climbing skill:

Climb overhangs
Boulder


The last tip but the most important is:
Enjoy your climbing session, if you have fun during your training session you will improve faster!!

fede

:lol
                                           攀 岩 训 练

我并不是职业的攀岩老师。以下是根据我自己和我的朋友们的经验总结出的一些训练的方法。

在我看来，最重要的一点我们必须牢记在心的是每个人的身体都是复杂的、独一无二的。为了更有效率，在你开始执行训练计划前，你应该对你的身体力量、自身弱点和攀岩的目标有一个确定性的和完整的评估。如果你用这个现实可行的条件作为标准，过滤现有的信息，你将很有希望总结出最适合自己的、理想的个人训练计划。你可以从很多渠道查询到关于攀岩的训练信息。试着想一下，你是哪种人，这些信息是针对谁的？是针对那些有条件每天攀岩和训练的人，还是针对只是想增加一点力量和信心的周末攀岩者。

一些如何提高攀岩能力的窍门

1）多爬：让你爬得更好的最佳方法就是多爬。试着找些适合你的线路并反复攀爬，这样你就可以提高攀岩的技巧，如平衡、指力和脚法等。

2）练习下攀（在岩壁上爬上再爬下）：如果你想爬得更好，你就必须练习下攀。为什么？下攀帮你集中注意力到你的脚上，这正是大多数攀岩者，特别是新人经常忘记的事情。当你下攀，你首先想到的是：“我要把脚踩在哪里？”

3）多样性：多样性是生活的情趣所在。不管你做什么，这也是进步的关键。不断的尝试新的、不同的东西--不断攀爬不同的线路，攀爬不同的岩壁，到不同的岩馆爬。这些都会让你提高并得到不少东西：

*你读线的能力--如何观察一条新线，并得出如何攀爬的方法。
*你的攀岩动作库--每条新线都会用不同的方式锻炼你的肌肉。如果你总是在相同的线路反复的攀爬，你的身体就学不到新的动作。在你训练时加入各种变化。尝试不同风格的线路。你可以在训练计划中练习下面建议的任何一种方法：

*只用一只手或一只脚练习攀爬
*只用脚来练习横移--这个方法对平衡和脚法有很大的提高
*用你碰到的第一个点来攀爬--就是一旦你的手抓到或脚踩到点，你就不能换点，即使很别扭。这样可以帮助你思考如何利用每个点来优化你的移动动作，并减少不必要的动作。
*抱石--和一群朋友一起抱石，并且每个人都出些抱石线路来一起爬。抱石线路大多包含了较短，较费力的移动动作，这样可以保证提高你的脚法和力量。
*绕圈--在一条你可以完成但还是有些挑战的线路上攀和下攀（或者横移再爬回来）。要保证当你绕圈的时候，会感到很快要力竭。这样可以锻炼你的耐力。

4）向别人学习：和一帮人一起攀岩的好处是你可以看别人是怎么爬的。这样可以让你获得新的动作来尝试，当你在岩壁上爬一条线路的时候。有时候别人的动作可能更好，更省力，用别人的方法总比用自己的方法在一个点上死磕更有意义。
当一群人一起攀岩的时候，总有比你强的，也有比你弱的。抛掉他们的攀爬能力，你应该观察每个人的攀爬动作，因为你总可以从他们的身上学到一些东西。和强一点的一起爬，很明显你可以从观察他们的攀爬中学到东西。即使你身体现在还无法做出那些动作，但是你的脑中已经储存了将来用得着的一些信息。
弱一点的提醒我们如何更省力地攀爬，很多动作并不需要用到那么大绝对力量，那是因为他们的身体还没有能力做一些费力的动作。

5）尝试难的线路：你要一直有个目标线路（或岩壁上的横移）来攀爬。什么叫做目标线路？一般来说就是一条你努力想要完成的线路。通常比你能轻松完成的线路要高1个到2个难度。这条线路应该非常有挑战性，但是又不超出你的能力。
它可以帮助你完善攀爬技巧，并锻炼你的短处。在你的目标线路上，可以包含某个小点，光滑的斜面点（我们通常说的OPEN点，正确叫法SLOPER)，你抓不住的捏点，或者可以是超出你现在身体能力的一些短的动作组合。

6）力量训练：有很多方法可以训练力量，但我建议以下两点来提高你的攀岩技巧：
*爬有仰角的线路
*抱石

最后一个窍门，也是最重要的，就是：

享受你的攀岩时光。如果你在攀岩的时候感到快乐，你的进步会更快！！

steven

Nice job, this is really help a lot to biginners:victory:

闻香

:lolBIEBLE HOUUUUUUUUU THANX:lo:handshake

袋鼠

It's useful for us to do rock climb training ,Fede, thanks.

steven

Fede, I have put the Chinese translation in the second column.:victory:

Can I post your articles on other forums?

袋鼠

good ,steven ,you are good man .

fede

Well done Steven!
Do it, It's ok....
Next week I'll post the second lesson :P