本帖最后由 不吃饭攀岩馆 于 2014-4-1 14:45 编辑
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! d# V: m4 L T& ~, S$ n8 m1 f5 h 初学者课程/Beginner
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6 O( P* u. J5 r. o时间：每周二19:00-21:30（详见以下课程表）
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费用：不收取培训费，但是参加者需付场地的费用：年卡、季卡会员免费，10次卡刷卡即可，无卡参加者交单次费用￥30/次
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友情提醒：此课程所有内容都是相互关联的，因此参加者最好参加所有的课程，否则学得一知半解，增加今后独立实际操作的风险！5 C4 J( v, {% K9 ^
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课程内容及时间表：" a4 z( m0 D! @) B& U' {0 Q, h# f
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日期/Date 内容/contents 主讲人
1 H5 t7 G" s& e1 N% ~4 ~ 3月11日 Introduction to Rock Climbing - Day 1 – Belay 攀岩入门-第1天-确保 Sport Climbing Equipment 运动攀登装备器材 Equipment Care, Handling, Safety Check – inspection, damage, cleaning, prevention, coiling rope 装备保养，操作，安全检查-观察，损坏，清洁，预防，理绳 Knot Tying – 8 and clove hitch 绳结-8字结和双套结 Preparing to Climb – Tie-in, Safety Check, Belay, Communication 攀爬前准备-绳子连接安全带的方法，安全检查，确保，沟通技巧 General Statement about accidents and belay 简述事故和确保的关系 Top Rope Belay – ATC set-up, hand over hand, lock-off, lowering, back-up, Introduction of GriGri (no instruction) 顶绳保护-ATC使用方法，确保交替手法，锁定，放人下降，备份，Grigri保护器介绍（不做技术讲解） Crag Ethics and Safety – belayer awareness/position, rope, equipment, pulling the rope 野外岩场道德和安全准则-确保者注意事项：站位，绳索，器材，抽绳 Practice – Safety Check, Top rope belay 实际操作练习-安全检查，顶绳保护$ h- y7 O; I7 F' W6 v; Q
Andrew Steven
2 k, m; a4 v4 _+ s9 ] k' Q 3月18日 Introduction to Rock Climbing – Day 2 – Climb 攀岩入门-第2天-攀爬 Knot Tying – review 8 and clove 绳结-复习8字结和双套结 Top Rope Climbing – Rope Awareness(crossing, twisting, pulling,over/under), Anchor(do not climb above), Quickdraws and bolts (feet/fingers), Fall safety, Communication 顶绳攀爬-绳索注意事项（交叉，拧绳，抽绳，上方/下方），保护站（不能爬过保护站），快挂和挂片（脚/手指），脱落安全事项，沟通技巧 Lowering as a Climber – position, movement 攀爬者下降-位置，动作 Crag safety -cleaning quickdraws on top-rope, loose rocks, climbing off-route 岩壁安全事项-顶绳收快挂，松动的岩石，超出线路攀爬 Safety sling – daisy, webbing, etc… 安全保护扁带-菊绳，扁带等…
7 h1 ?+ Z s# u4 K* C, F What is an anchor - bolt configurations – picture slide show – backup – 2 points of connection 什么是保护站-挂片的构成-图片展示-备份-2点连接保护原则 Safety at Height – 2 points, rope as personal anchor, quickdraw improve 高空安全注意事项-2点保护，用绳子连接保护站，快挂加强 Cleaning Anchor – Safety, communication, how to use the anchor configuration, 2 processes (pull- through/untie), double-checking, 做顶（清理保护站）-安全事项，沟通技巧，如何使用保护站，2个步骤（穿绳/解绳），再次检查 Practice – Safety checks, Top rope belay, Anchor cleaning 实际操作练习-安全检查，顶绳保护，做顶（清理保护站） Andrew Steven ' n8 b# n: Q+ W* h
3月22日或23日（具体时间待通知） Nantaiwu outdoor climbing 南太武野外现场操作训练 Top rope climbing and belay，etc… 顶绳攀爬与保护等… Andrew Steven ( d' c' [+ d* D6 S) h
4月1日 Anchors and Abseiling 保护站设置和绳降 Review equipment 装备器材复习 Knot review and tying – water knot 绳结复习和新绳结-水结 Anchor Basics – Equalize, 60 degrees, common sport anchors, 保护站基础知识-受力均衡，60度夹角，一般运动攀保护站的种类 More anchor examples - rope and clove hitches, sling and rope, sharp edges extension, natural anchors (trees/rocks), locking carabiners and opposing carabiners 介绍更多种类的保护站-绳索和双套结，扁带和绳索，如何在尖锐的边缘做延长，天然保护站（树木/岩石），锁门关闭，锁门相对 Building Top Rope anchors – fixed, variable, tyed-off, quickdrawimprove 顶绳保护站设置-固定的，可调节的，打绳结的，快挂加强 Safety – 1 anchor/1 rope, rope protectors, carabiners and edges, extending over edges, swinging climbers (abrasion) 安全事项-1个保护站1条绳子，绳索保护装备，锁具和边缘的关系，延长过边缘，四处摆荡的攀岩者（绳索磨损） Abseiling –when to abseil vs. lower,benefits of abseil, rope preparation,abseil length, stopper knots, touching the ground, ATC set-up, back-up hitch, abseiling 绳降-什么时候需要绳降或放人下降，绳降的好处，准备下降绳索的长度，防脱结，落地，ATC使用方法，备份抓结，绳降 Safety - pre-testing, heat and friction, hair and rope tangles, tying off, bouncing, abseil off a ledge, double check 安全事项-预先测试，温度和摩擦，头发和绳索缠绕，解开绳结 Practice Anchor building, cleaning, abseiling, and belay 实际操作练习-保护站设置，清理保护站，绳结和确保 Andrew Steven 7 e2 E8 c5 B" ]$ g
4月8日 Lead Climbing and Belay 先锋攀登和确保 Review equipment, knots, and preparing to climb 复习装备器材，绳结和攀爬前准备 Knot tying – Bowline and fisherman’s 绳结-布林结（称人结）和渔人结 Communication –Pre-climb/during climbing – eye contact – belayer awareness – accidents 沟通技巧-攀爬前/攀爬中-眼神交流-确保者注意事项-事故 Pre-climb routine –flake rope, communicate, route awareness, safety check 攀爬前流程-有问题的绳索，沟通技巧，路线观察，安全检查 Climbing – use of quickdraws, rope awareness, clipping positions, resting, communicating, lowering, back clipping 攀爬-快挂的使用，绳索注意事项，挂绳的位置，休息，沟通技巧，放人下降，挂绳错误 Belaying – review ATC set-up, rope slack amount, safety position vs. comfort, give and take clipping rope, Take, communication, lowering 确保-复习ATC使用方法，绳子的松紧度，安全位置和舒适度，给绳和收回挂快挂后的余绳，收紧绳子，沟通技巧，放人下降 Falling as a Climber – rope awareness, bolt awareness, communication 攀登者冲坠-绳索注意事项，快挂注意事项，沟通技巧 Belaying a falling climber– Hard vs. Soft, position of belayer, factor two falls, direction of forces, awareness of hazards to falling climber, weight differences 确保先锋者冲坠-硬确保和软确保，确保者位置，坠落系数2的冲坠，受力点方向，冲坠者的危险，体重的差异
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4月12日或13日（具体时间待通知） Nantaiwu outdoor climbing 南太武野外现场操作训练 Lead climbing and belay, etc… 先锋攀登与保护等… ) N* c; b2 V4 p" i2 R) I
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To be informed 在评估完学员掌握所学技术的情况后，具体时间待定 Multi-pitch Climbing 多段结组攀登 Knot Tying – Munter, butterfly, prusik, other methods to tie two ropes 绳结-意大利半扣，登山蝴蝶结，普鲁士抓结，2条绳索连接的其他方法 Knowledge of route –where, difficulty, length, descent – sometimes carry info 线路信息-地点，难度，线路高度，下降方法-有时需随身携带线路信息 Other Equipment – pack, shoes, food, water, clothing, 2 ropes vs. 1, etc… 其他装备器材-背包，鞋子，食物，水，衣物，2条绳子或1条绳子等… Block climbing vs. switching leads 单人先锋攀爬还是交替先锋攀爬 Top of pitch process – find the belay, 2 points of safety, set-up anchor, communication (rope tugs, radios, sight), haul rope, belay每段线路顶部的流程-找到保护站，2点保护安全原则，设置保护站，沟通技巧（拉绳信号方法，无线电，视野），提拉绳索，确保 Belay management –hanging belay/ledge, anchor configuration, where is next pitch, who is leading, how to organize, rope management 保护站管理-悬吊/平台保护，保护站的构成，下一段线路在哪里，谁来先锋，如何组织，绳索管理 Belaying from the anchor – 3 methods – indirect, harness belay, direct 保护站上的确保-3种方法-间接确保，安全带确保，直接确保 Direct Belay – set-up, resting climber, lowering 直接确保-设置，吊住攀爬者，放人下降 2nd climber Belay – sight, comfort, amount of rope, feeling the climber 确保跟攀者-视野，舒适度，绳子的松紧度，感觉攀爬者的状况 2nd climber cleaning 跟攀者清理线路上的器材 Change leads at belay – efficiency, rope, equipment 在保护站转换先锋-效率，绳索，装备 Lead climb from high belay – use of first piece of protection. 高处确保的先锋攀爬-第一个保护点的使用 & e. Q3 u- G! d
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