Flowing over stone-- 5 ways to get your head in "the zone"
From Climbing Magazine
by Marc Taylor
As I started climbing it was as if something took over that was beyond conscious thought. My hands and feet located holds like they had minds of their own, and each move flowed into the next. Although I had visited this wall hundreds of times, it was easier to traverse than ever before." “當我開始攀登的時候，似乎有什麼意識之外的東西開始接手。手和腳就像自有意識般地放到適當的位置，每個動作都流暢地接續到下個動作。盡管我已經來到這面岩牆好幾百次了，這次的橫渡卻比之前任何一次都輕鬆。”
Perhaps you can recall a time when everything just "clicked," and you were totally absorbed in the climbing. If so, you have experienced one of the greatest "highs" of sports: the flow state, often described as "being in the zone." Those who have been there describe an almost mystical experience that results in, among other things, increased confidence, heightened awareness, total concentration, and near-effortless movement. The following tips will help you experience flow more often and with greater intensity every time you touch rock. 也許你能想起某次當所有事情都很順，而你全神貫注於攀登的經驗。如果這樣，那麼你就經歷了攀登中最棒的經驗：流暢的狀態，通常也稱為“進入狀況”。經歷過的人描述這種近乎神奇的經驗會帶來自信心增強、意識力提升、注意力完全集中、以及幾乎不費力的動作。下列的提示能幫助你更常體驗到流暢的感覺，並且使你在每次接觸岩壁時更加專注。
Seek a challenge-skill balance. This is the golden rule of flow. If your hardest route is 5.10a, spending all day attempting a 5.12 will only result in frustration. Conversely, you'll likely get bored climbing a 5.6. Instead, seek routes that are both challenging and attainable. For example, you might best experience flow while climbing a 5.9. 尋求技巧與挑戰性之間的平衡。這是流暢度的黃金準則。如果你最難的路線是5.10a，那麼即使花費一整天去嘗試5.12也只會帶來挫敗。反之，爬個5.6又會讓你覺得無聊。因此，請找些既有挑戰性又有能力完成的路線。例如在爬5.9的時候可能讓你覺得爬起來最順暢。
Set achievable, process-orientated goals. Process-orientated goals stem from the activity itself, rather than external factors. The goal of executing a perfect layback is more conducive to flow than wanting to burn off your partner or impress a spectator. Achievable goals are in your direct control. "Not grabbing the quickdraw in the middle of that scary runout" is achievable, whereas "sending the route this try" is not. 以過程為取向，訂立可達成的目標。以過程為取向的目標起源於你所從事的活動本身，而非來自於外在的因素。完成一個完美的layback比企圖嚇死確保者或吸引觀眾來得有意義。可達成的目標則是由自己直接掌握。“在中途又沒力又恐怖的時候也不要拉快扣”是可達到的目標，但是“這次就要完攀這條路線”就不盡然了。
Have a pre-climb routine. Such routines have been shown to improve the performances of elite athletes. They give a sense of control, channel attention to the task at hand, and free the mind from extraneous thoughts and worries. A climber's routine might involve a three-minute examination of the route, followed by tying in, chalking his hands, and then reciting a meaningful key word, such as "focus." Your routine must suit your needs, and will only be effective when you have practiced it until it becomes automatic. 培養一項好的攀登習慣。這些習慣曾經使一些最優秀的運動家有更好的表現。這套程序和習慣能幫助你擁有控制力、將注意力灌注至手的動作、並且擺脫外在無謂的胡思亂想和憂慮。一項攀岩者的攀登習慣可能包含三分鐘的路線觀察，接著綁繩子，抓粉，然後告訴自己一個有用的字，例如“專注”。這個習慣必須符合個人所需，而且只有當你已經練習到習慣成自然的時候才能發揮它的效用。
Promote positive self-talk. Flow is a highly focused state. Our minds, however, have a tendency to drift from this focus, diverting to irrelevant or even negative thoughts. When this happens try refocusing on a key word or image (e.g. "stop," seeing the color red, or even picturing a stop sign). With practice this can serve as a trigger to halt the unproductive thoughts and get you back into the groove. 重視建設性的自我對話。流暢的攀登是一種高度專注的狀態。然而我們的精神卻很容易從專注的狀態轉移到不重要的事情，或甚至產生負面思考。當這種情況發生的時候，請試著重新把注意力放到一個關鍵字或影像上（例如“停！”、看看紅色的東西、甚或想像一個停止標誌）。經過練習之後，這項做法會成為中止無建設性思考的動力，並且讓你重新回復最佳狀態。
Visualize success. Close your eyes and simply imagine yourself flowing up a climb. You might picture an imaginary climb, such as a perfect hand crack, or the moves on a specific route. Many climbers already use this technique, often called "visualization," but not in a systematic fashion. One key component of visualization is "vividness" -- try to make your images as real as possible, using all of your senses to picture the bright colors of clothing, the rough texture of rock, the wild swing as you hold that dyno. Another is discipline; visualization is a learned skill, so regular practice is important. Do several sessions a week, devoting five or 10 minutes to each session. 想像成功。閉上眼睛，只想像自己爬得很流暢的樣子。或許你能夠勾勒一次假想的攀登，像是一個完美的手裂隙，或是在某條路線上移動。很多攀岩者都使用這項稱為“心像技巧”的方法，，但使用的方式卻並非很有系統。心像技巧的一項要素是“逼真”──讓自己的想像儘可能像真的；用全副精神想像衣服明亮的顏色、岩石粗糙的質感、以及dyno時劇烈的擺盪。另一項要素則是鍛鍊；心像技巧是一種深奧的技巧，因此規律性地做有系統的練習很重要。每星期可做幾次練習，每次練習花費5或10分鐘。
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