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标题: （已翻译）Lesson 7.2 - Training on fingerboards [打印本页]

作者: fede 时间: 2009-12-15 10:18 标题: （已翻译）Lesson 7.2 - Training on fingerboards

本帖最后由 steven 于 2009-12-21 15:45 编辑

Fingerboards is most effective at training contact strength, body tension and general upper-body strength. Contact strength, also referred to as finger strength, is simply the ability to hold onto the holds (as opposed to the ability to move between the holds). It is the single most important type of strength for a climber to have. If you can't even hold on to the grips, there is no way you will be able to move between them.Body tension, sometimes called core strength, allows you to distribute the force you are generating between your points of contact and to direct your movement. It allows you to weight your feet and save energy. This type of strength (or the lack there of) is especially noticeable in controlling swings around the lips of roofs or on steep rock in general, but it is critical to all climbing movement.

How to Grasp the Grips
You should use an open-handed grip as much as possible. Most climbers are weaker open-handed than crimped, so you may find this difficult at first, but you'll get used to it. Training open-handed will increase your crimp strength (but not vice-versa), and it is essential for holding pockets, slopers, and certain edges, as well as making moves at maximum stretch and catching dynos. Most importantly, however, using an open hand lowers the potential for injury. As you adapt to training, you can incorporate a little crimp training to increase your maximum edge-holding power, but keep it to a minimum.

Warm Up, Warm Down

It is critical to warm up thoroughly. You can start by climbing, bouldering, or doing easy pull-ups and dead hangs, along with gentle stretching. Make the first 15minutes ridiculously easy and gradually increase the intensity until you're at full power. Reverse this process at the end of your session to prevent injury and speed up recovery. The warm down should be even easier than the warm up. It should feel as if you're doing almost nothing. The idea is just to keep the blood flowing for 15 or 20 minutes after the high intensity part of your workout.

Recovery
To maximize your gains and prevent injury, you should always be fully recovered before a training session. Not resting enough between workouts will soon lead to a plateau, quickly followed by injury and burn out. If it takes you longer than normal to feel warmed up, or if you haven't noticed any improvement in three or four sessions, you probably need more rest. Listen to your body and be flexible with your training schedule.

Making It Easier
If you find certain exercises or holds too difficult at first, you can put one foot on a chair or have a training partner assist you by taking off as much weight as necessary. Be sure to have a clean,open, well-padded landing area, as an awkward, off-balance fall is a greater possibility when your feet are helping to take your weight.

Exercises

Dead Hang
This is the fundamental exercise for developing contact strength. It can be performed with two arms or one. You should master the two-arm dead hang on any particular hold before attempting any other exercise on that hold. Never lock your elbows completely. Always keep a slight bend to prevent injury.

Bent-Arm Hang
A variation of the dead hang which will begin to develop your ability to pull through and lock-off. This can be done at any angle, and should be varied as much as possible. Pull yourself up to the designated angle and hold a static contraction for the designated amount of time. Be careful of doing maximal contractions at full lock-off, as they can be as injurious as fully locked-out elbows.

Offset Hang
This exercise begins to develop one-arm power. Begin as with the two-arm dead hang, but choose a lower and/or worse hold with the assisting hand. Center your weight under the arm to be loaded and perform the hang giving yourself just enough help with the other hand to complete the exercise. A variation that is good for training lock-off strength is to take two similar holds at the same height, but at least shoulder width apart. Pull up part way and lock-off as in a bent-arm hang. Shift your weight all the way to one side and hold a contraction. Shift your weight laterally, all the way to the other side, without lowering your body and hold an equal contraction. Repeat. Vary the angle of your lock-off, the duration of your lock-off, and the number of repetitions.

Pull-up
Try to be as smooth as possible. Don't jerk, kip, swing, orotherwise cheat.
Keep your lower body quiet. Don't lock your elbowscompletely at the bottom.
Focus on maintaining perfect form, and don't worry about thenumber
of repetitions.

Offset Pull-up
The first step to one-arm pull-ups. Position yourself with your weight centered under one arm, as if to do a one-arm pull-up. Choose a lower hold with the other hand and give yourself just enough assistance to complete the exercise.

One-arm Pull-up
Now you really have some power! Follow the same guidelines as for pull-ups, but rotate your body inward to center your weight under the arm you're using. If you're getting close but can't quite do one arms, do an offset pull-up, but perform the negative contraction (lower yourself) as a pure one-arm. The potential for injury is very high, so it is absolutely critical to be smooth. Don't bounce!

L-Hang
The emphasis here is on core strength. Choose a hold that you're fairly comfortable on. You can dead-hang or bent-arm hang.Pull your legs up from the hips, keeping your knees straight. Hold a static contraction with your legs at 90° to your torso or do slow repetitions raising your legs as far as you can but only lowering to about 45° below horizontal. If you lower your legs all the way, it will take the tension off your abs and constitute a rest. The idea is to keep your abdominal muscles contracted the entire time. If straight leg raises are too difficult, bend your knees at a 90°angle.

Front Lever
This is a very advanced exercise in which the body is held rigidly, parallel to the ground, by levering off the arms. Begin by pulling your feet up until your body is perpendicular to the ground, feet up, head down. Slowly lower your feet, holding your body totally rigid, until your body is parallel to the ground. Work up to these by performing them first with both legs bent at the knees, and then with one leg straight and one bent.If you are one of the rare few who can do a good front lever, try it with one arm.

Ten-Minute Sequences
The ten-minute sequence consists of ten tasks,one performed at the start of each minute, with the remaining time used to rest until the start of the next minute. Some tasks will simply be one exercise, and some tasks will include two or more exercises. It is an excellent format for training both strength and stamina in the same workout, for improving your recovery, or just for warming up. It is also a great way to simulate the demands of your current project.

Training Guide - 10 Minute Sequences

The 10 minute sequence consists of 10 tasks, one performed at the start of each minute with the remaining time used to rest until the start of the next minute. It is an excellent format for training both strength and stamina in the same workout, for improving your recovery, or just for warming up. It is also a great way to simulate the demands of your current project.

I have included two sample routines, but the ten-minute sequence is most effective when you custom tailor it to your own personal needs. Be creative and don't limity ourself. It could be five minutes or thirty minutes; you could do it in 45second cycles or two-minute cycles. Experiment with your training and keep it as varied as possible.

Time (minutes)	Easier Workout	Harder Workout
1st minute	3 pulls Medium Edge	6 pulls Round Sloper
2nd minute	10 second hang Round Slope 2 pulls Medium Edge	20 second hang Medium Edge 3 Pulls Jugs
3rd minute	15 second hang Small Edge 2 pulls 3 Finger Pocket	20 second hang Small Edge 3 pulls 3 Finger Pocket
4th minute	15 second hang Jugs 3 pulls Medium Edge	25 second hang Round Sloper 5 pulls Large Edge
5th minute	20 second hang Round Sloper 3 pulls 3 Finger Pocket	25 second hang Large Edge 3 pulls Medium Edge
6th minute	10 second hang Medium Edge 2 pulls Small Edge	30 second Hang Round Sloper 5 pulls Small Edge
7th minute	10 second hang Jugs 4 pulls Round Sloper	20 second hang Large Edge 3 pulls 1 3/8" 2 Finger Pocket
8th minute	5 pulls Medium Edge	20 second hang Medium Edge 3 pulls 1 1/2" 2 Finger Pocket
9th minute	3 pulls Jugs	15 second hang Flat Sloper 3 pulls Jugs
10th minute	Max. Hang Round Sloper	Max. Hang Round Sloper

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作者: fede 时间: 2009-12-15 10:30

本帖最后由 steven 于 2009-12-21 15:43 编辑

第七课（2）--悬吊指力板训练

指力板用于训练接触力量、躯干张力和上身整体力量最有效。接触力量也指手指力量，是指抓住手点的绝对能力（与之相对的是在手点和手点间移动的能力）。对攀岩者来说，指力是最重要的力量。如果你连手点都抓不住，更不用说在点与点之间移动了。身体张力也叫核心力量，它可以让你分配在接触点之间发出的力量和指挥你的动作；让你可以将重心放在脚上和节省力气。一般来说，在屋檐边上或有仰角的岩壁上控制身体摆荡时，这种力量（或缺乏这种力量）是最容易看出来的。但是对所有的攀岩动作来说，它是起决定性作用的。

如何抓手点
应该尽量的使用open-hand的抓法（见图例）。大多数攀岩者的open-hand抓法都比crimp抓法（见图例）弱，所以一开始你可能觉得很难，但是慢慢的你会习惯。训练open-hand的能力将提高你的crimp力量（但反过来可不是这样），而且它是抓住指洞点、光滑的点（有些人叫open点）和某些特定的点，以及在极限力量下做动作和动态后抓住点的基本要素。更重要的是，使用open-hand抓法可以降低受伤的几率。一旦你适应了这种训练，你可以加入一些crimp抓法的训练来提高抓住小边沿点的力量，但是将这种训练的量保持在最少。

图片1.jpg

热身和收身
彻底地热身非常的重要。你可以从攀岩、抱石或做一些容易的引体和悬吊，以及轻度的拉伸开始。前15分钟保持非常的容易，然后慢慢增加强度直到你的力量达到最大。在训练的最后时段将这个过程反过来，以防止受伤和加快恢复。收身的强度应该比热身更容易。应该觉得就像你几乎什么也没做那样。意图就是让你在高强度部分的训练后，保持同样的血液循环15或20分钟。

恢复
为了获得最大的效果和防止受伤，你在每个训练期间前，应该必须得到充分的恢复。训练间隔期间没有得到足够的休息将会导致平台期，紧接着是伤病和元气大伤。如果你觉得热身比平常需要更长时间，或着发觉在3或4次的训练期后没有任何的进步，那你可能需要更多的休息。听从你的身体，灵活调整你的训练表。

把难的变得简单点
如果一开始你觉得有些练习或手点太难，你可以把一只脚放在椅子上或让训练伙伴扶着你来减轻必要的重量。确定落脚的区域要干净无杂物、开阔并垫好垫子。当你的脚帮助支撑重量时，发生难以控制的不平衡跌落的可能性更大。

练习项目

垂直悬吊
这个是建立接触力量的基础练习。可以用双臂悬吊或单臂悬吊。在同一个点尝试其他练习前，你应该先在这个点上熟练掌握双臂垂直悬吊。永远不要完全锁死手肘，要总是保持轻微的弯曲，以防止受伤。

图片2.jpg

曲臂悬吊
它是垂直悬吊的一种变化，可以建立你拉起身体和锁定的能力。可以在任何一个角度进行这个练习，并且应该尽可能多角度。把你自己拉起到设定的角度，然后保持肌肉静止收缩一定的时间。在完全锁定时做最大的肌肉收缩要非常小心，因为它和完全锁死手肘一样容易受伤。

图片3.jpg

补偿悬吊
这个练习开始建立你的单臂力量。先从双臂垂直悬吊开始，但是辅助的手选一个低一点和/或难抓的点。将重心放到受力的手臂上，然后做悬吊，另一只手要相应的提供一定的支撑来完成这个练习。另外一种变化是训练锁定力的好方法，就是在同一个高度选2个同样的点，但至少距离必须是肩膀的宽度。拉起引体并锁定在曲臂悬吊的状态，将重心转移到其中的一边并保持肌肉收缩状态。然后再将重心侧向转移到另外一边，身体不能下降，保持肌肉收缩同样的时间。重复再做几组。注意多变换锁定的不同角度、锁定的时间和重复的次数。

图片4.jpg

引体
拉引体时尽可能平稳，不要猛拉、猛拽、摆荡，否则是偷机的行为。保持下身平稳。手肘不要完全锁死在下方。把注意力集中在保持完美的身体姿势上，不用在意可以做多少次。

图片5.jpg

补偿引体
这是迈向单臂引体的第一步。将你的重心放在一只手臂上，就像要做单臂引体一样。另外一只手选一个低位置的点，用来辅助你完成这个练习。

图片6.jpg

单臂引体
现在你确实很有力了！按照引体的方法，但将身体向内转，把重心放到你正在做的那只手臂上。如果你已经很接近了，但还是做不了单臂；那就做一个补偿引体，但做反向收缩时（将自己放下时）必须只用单臂。这样受伤的几率非常高，因此放下来时必须绝对的平稳。不能猛的放下！

图片7.jpg

L型悬吊
这里训练的重点是核心力量。选一个你可以很舒服抓住的点。你可以垂直悬吊或曲臂悬吊。将腿抬起，膝盖伸直，保持腿和躯干成90°静止绷直，或慢慢的重复做抬腿的动作，腿抬越高越好，但是放下时只能到在水平线下大约45°的位置。如果把腿全部放下，腹肌会得到放松和休息。这个动作的主要目的就是要保持腹肌一直紧绷。如果伸直腿做太难的话，可以将膝盖弯曲90°角来做。

图片8.jpg

俯平衡
这个是非常高级的练习。要用双臂将绷直的身体撬起与地面平行。先将脚抬起直到你的身体和地面垂直，脚向上，头朝下；慢慢放下脚，保持身体完全绷直，直到身体和地面平行。开始练习时，先从两腿屈膝开始，然后再练一只腿伸直，一只腿屈膝。如果你是少数几个可以熟练做俯平衡的高手，那么就可以试试用单手做。

图片9.jpg

10分钟连串练习
10分钟连串练习由10个训练项目组成，每个项目从每分钟的开头开始做，完成后这分钟剩下的时间用来休息，直到下分钟开始为止。有些项目可以是1个练习，也可以包含2个或以上的练习。这是一种非常好的方式，在一次训练里可以用来同时训练力量和耐力，也可以用来改善恢复，或只是用来热身。同样这也是一种很棒的方法来模仿你现在的目标线路（PROJECT）所需要的动作。

训练指导--10分钟连串练习

在一分钟内开始并完成训练的项目，然后用剩下的时间来休息。挂一只表在指力板的下面，或在墙上安一个时钟，这样你在训练的时候平视就可以看到它。

我收录了以下2个样板训练规划，但是当你根据自己的需要量身定制时，10分钟连串练习的效果最好。不要限制自己，要富有想象力。也可以是5分钟或30分钟；你也可以用45秒或2分钟轮一圈。实验一下你的训练计划，并尽量利用不同的方法进行训练。

以下练习使用此指力板：

图片10.jpg

时间（分钟）	较简单的训练	较难的训练
第一分钟	3个引体中Edge点	6个引体 Round Sloper点
第二分钟	10秒悬吊 Round Slope点 2个引体中Edge点	20秒悬吊中Edge点 3个引体 Jug点
第三分钟	15秒悬吊小Edge点 2个引体 3Finger Pocket点	20秒悬小Edge点 3个引体 3 Finger Pocket点
第四分钟	15秒悬吊 Jug点 3个引体中Edge点	25秒悬吊 Round Sloper点 5个引体大Edge点
第五分钟	20秒悬吊 Round Sloper点 3个引体 3 Finger Pocket点	25秒悬吊大Edge点 3个引体中Edge点
第六分钟	10秒悬吊中Edge点 2个引体小Edge点	30秒悬吊 Round Sloper点 5个引体小Edge点
第七分钟	10秒悬吊 Jug点 4个引体 Round Sloper点	20秒悬吊大Edge 3个引体 1 3/8" 2 Finger Pocket点
第八分钟	5个引体中Edge点	20秒悬吊中Edge点 3个引体 1 1/2" 2 Finger Pocket点
第九分钟	3个引体 Jug点	15秒悬吊 Flat Sloper点 3个引体 Jug点
第十分钟	最长悬吊至脱落Round Sloper点	最长悬吊至脱落Round Sloper点

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作者: steven 时间: 2009-12-15 11:01

Fede, this training is really tough:L

作者: steven 时间: 2009-12-17 16:02

本帖最后由 steven 于 2009-12-17 16:09 编辑

Fede, this is really crazy!:funk: Are you sure it's for climbing training?:dizzy:

Front Lever
This is a very advanced exercise in which the body is held rigidly, parallel to the ground, by levering off the arms. Begin by pulling your feet up until your body is perpendicular to the ground, feet up, head down. Slowly lower your feet, holding your body totally rigid, until your body is parallel to the ground. Work up to these by performing them first with both legs bent at the knees, and then with one leg straight and one bent.If you are one of the rare few who can do a good front lever, try it with one arm.

Can you do this...:lol

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作者: 袋鼠 时间: 2009-12-17 16:20

;P

作者: steven 时间: 2009-12-17 23:35

Fede, in 'Ten-Minute Sequences': " We have included a sample routine for each fingerboard and one for Rock Rings,"

Do you have the "sample routine"? I am quite confused about this word.

作者: fede 时间: 2009-12-19 09:31

Steven, I added a Guide for the 10 minute sequence with some exercises...

When I was young I did it a lot of time, you don't need to follow the schedule but just do what do you think is better for you. If you don't have enough power do some "pull-ups", hang on a small hold.....

I have to check my file because maybe I inserted some pictures in the wrong position :)

P.S. John Gill was amazing, one of the most powerful climbers of the world!

Are you going to the gym tomorrow? We will go there around 3 pm....

Ciao

作者: fede 时间: 2009-12-19 09:46

Now texts and pictures are ok, you just have to train!!

;P

作者: steven 时间: 2009-12-20 00:22

本帖最后由 steven 于 2009-12-20 00:24 编辑

Thanks, Fede. I think I have to start from the Lesson 1 before having fingerboard training:lol

Can you post a picture of the fingerboard used for above schedule? I need to know the exact holds said in the schedule.

作者: fede 时间: 2009-12-20 09:01

Ciao Steven, I'm going to the gym today because we don't have too much time, just a couple of hours....but probably we'll come to the bouldering area close to the gym just to see you guys!
See you :P

作者: steven 时间: 2009-12-21 15:47

This lesson is really tough!{:2_32:}

作者: fede 时间: 2009-12-21 16:14

eheheh....

but you are strong enough. You can do it!!!

See you next year, I wish you Merry Christmas and happy Western New Year :lol

Ciao
fede

作者: steven 时间: 2009-12-21 16:30

Thanks.

Have a nice Christmas and New Year Holiday!:D

Ciao

欢迎光临厦门岩友会 (http://xmclimber.com/)