All over the world, dedicated climbers are working hard every day, testing the limits of their bodies and minds with the single goal of moving climbing forward.
The moments of glory are few and far between. It's the struggle and sacrifice behind the breakthroughs that tell the true story of the advancement of the sport in all its forms. Featuring Chris Sharma, Tommy Caldwell, Daniel Woods, Adam Ondra, Kevin Jorgeson, Patxi Usobiaga, Johanna Ernst, Alex Honnold, Paul Robinson, Matt Segal, and more.
Highlights
• Chris Sharma applies his bouldering power to a new batch of viciously hard sport routes in Spain, while training for his nemesis, a project at Clark Mountain, CA (featured in KING LINES). Later he returns to Clark Mountain to complete the route and establish the world's hardest rock climb, Jumbo Love (5.15b).
• Tommy Caldwell continues to break new ground in Yosemite big wall free climbing, with the first free ascent of Magic Mushroom, and a glimpse of his latest El Cap super project, Mescalito.
• Patxi Usobiaga (Spain) and Johanna Ernst (Austria) train like maniacs to become champions of the World Cup competition circuit.
• Daniel Woods and Paul Robinson rip the hardest single moves on the fantasy boulders of Rocklands, South Africa.
• Kevin Jorgeson pushes highball bouldering to a new level with his terrifying ascent of Ambrosia, in Bishop, CA.
• Alex Honnold and Matt Segal bring a fresh attitude to the legendary scary grit routes of England.
• Adam Ondra, the 16 year old Czech phenom, shows why he's turning the climbing world upside down, with lightning fast repeats of high-end routes作者: steven 时间: 2009-10-14 14:49
Big Up's Progression:
Behind the Lens: Big Up Productions talks candidly about everything you won't see in front of the lens and how their latest release Progression was the next step in their budding evolution as film makers. -Anthony Lapomardo
When you spend so many years behind the lens of one of our communities most treasured film series you have a lot to own up too. Big Up Productions is constantly changing to meet and challenge the medium of climbing films. Each release builds upon the last, incorporating new story lines, camera angles, and the chance to feature an unexplored destination. And, with their latest release Cooper Roberts gave DPM the play by play of the motivators behind their latest feature film.
DPM: Progression is the name of the film based upon climbers pushing the limits, but does the title double for the way in which Big Up has also evolved? If so in what way?
BigUp: We didn't name it with us in mind, but yeah, the concept does also apply to our arc over the past few years. Or rather, it speaks to our mindset when we start a film..."How are we gonna up the ante this time? Can we out-do ourselves?" Taking Puff Daddy's advice to heart: treat everything like your first project, stay hungry.
DPM: Currently, a lot of the buzz is based upon your new filming techniques, how did your crew conceive and construct your new rig? What is your opinion on the result?
BigUp: It's a fine line to know when to bust out our crazy contraptions and techniques or to keep it low-key documentary style. I'm happy with the mix we captured in Progression of aesthetic cinematography AND real emotional moments. But yeah, we've all been pretty psyched on the result when we do make the effort and break out the 6 meter crane or rig-up a tracking system for routes...as far as the setup, afraid that's classified information.
DPM: It appears that you incorporated a lot of comp climbing in Paxti's segment, it this a relief from rigging the set up for outside elements?
BigUp: Yeah, rigging wise it was a breeze, but the overall mission of covering the World Cup circuit proved to be one of the more challenging pieces. We were out of our element in a branch of the sport that most rock climbers blow off as lame and over-controlled. It took some adjusting and tweaking for us, but we stuck at it over the course of the year and the piece has actually turned out to be one of my favorites in the film...winning is the life-blood for these athletes and that intensity led to some cool moments.
DPM: Numerous first ascents after months of camera work, how involved do you feel with each climber clipping the chains or hitting the finish jug?
BigUp: We're definitely on the same roller-coaster ride they're on, but I don't think the experience could match what they're actually going through. It's amazing to capture those rare moments such as Sharma sending Jumbo Love or Kevin on Ambrosia, but being on the ground is pretty lame in comparison. All the people we filmed are badass superheroes; I've got a lot of respect for what they do.
DPM: Partnering with Sender Films and shooting and selling segments to National Geographic and obtaining a wider audience, do you feel it exposes the sport to a growing market or those focused on the "thrill seeking" aspect?
BigUp: I don't know much about the NG TV market, but I assume it'd bring the sport to new eyes. This is a good thing. The world needs more heroes.
DPM: Does the "Dosage" franchise still have room to grow or is Progression and larger films like King Lines, that are story based the new wave?
BigUp: Waves are reactions to torrents, so in that sense all these story based climbing films are paving the way for a reactionary style. I think all of these approaches are beautiful for different reasons and I'm interested to see where things move. For now, I'm very proud to present my blood and sweat for the past year: Progression作者: steven 时间: 2009-10-14 14:53
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