标题: Rock Climbing Training(中文翻译在2楼） [打印本页] 作者: fede 时间: 2009-8-28 12:19 标题: Rock Climbing Training(中文翻译在2楼）
本帖最后由 steven 于 2009-9-2 16:19 编辑
Following are some training routines that have been developed through mine own experience as well as that of our friends. I’m not a professional climbing teacher.
In my perspective, the single most important thing to keep in mind is that each of us has a very unique and complex body. To be most effective, your training program starts with a critical and complete assessment of your strengths and weaknesses along with your goals for climbing. If you use this realistic list as a filter for all the information available, hopefully you will end up with an individual program that is ideally suited to you. There are now many sources of information out there that pertain to training for climbing. Try to keep in mind who you are and who the information is targeted to, a person who can afford to climb and train full time or the weekend athlete who wants to make some gains in strength and confidence.
Tips on “How to Improve Your Rock Climbing Ability”
1) Climb More: The best thing you can do to get better at rock climbing is to climb more. Try to find your route and climb it, like this you can improve your climbing skills - such as balance, finger strength,footwork, etc.
2) Practice Down Climbing (go and come back on the wall): If you want to get better at climbing, then you have to practice down climbing.Why? Down climbing helps you focus on the one thing most climbers, especially newbie climbers, often forget - your feet. When you down climb, the first thing you think about is: "Where am I going to put my foot?"
3) Variety: Variety is the spice of life. It is also the key to getting better at whatever you do. Always try to climb something new and different - work on different routes, climb at different crags, go to different gyms. This helps you to improve a couple of things:
Your route-reading ability - how you look at a new route and figure out how to climb it.
Your repertoire of rock climbing moves - every new route will train your muscles in different ways. If you only climb the same routes over and over again, your body won't learn anything new. Add variety to your training sessions. Try different styles of climbing. You can work any of the following suggestions into your training program:
*Climb using only one hand or only one leg *Practice traversing using feet only - this is great for improving your balance and your footwork. *Climb using first touch - that means once you have placed your hand or foot, you can't shift the position, even if it is awkward. This helps you think about how you use a hold so that you optimize your moves and reduce the number of unnecessary moves *Boulder - do this with a group of friends and give each other boulder problems to work on. Bouldering tends to involve a shorter, more powerful sequence of moves and this is guaranteed to help improve your footwork and your strength. *Do laps - up climb and down climb (or go and come back) on a route that you can complete but is still somewhat challenging. Make sure you feel like you are working out when you do laps. This helps to build your endurance.
4) Learn from the Others: The benefit of climbing in a group is that you get to see how others climb. It gives you ideas for new moves that you can try when working out a problem on the wall. Sometimes another climber may have a better move that conserves more energy and it makes sense for you to copy that move than to stick to the move that you worked out yourself.
When you climb in a group, there will be climbers that are better than you and climbers who are weaker than you. Regardless of their climbing ability, you should watch them all climb because there are things you can learn from a weaker climber as well as a stronger climber. With a stronger climber, it's obvious what you can learn from watching them climb. Even if you aren't physically capable of making the moves just yet, your brain is always storing information for future use.
Weaker climbers remind us how best to conserve energy when climbing because a lot of the moves they use do not require as much strength purely because they don't have the physical capability of making powerful moves.
5) Try Hard: Always have a project route (or traverse on the wall) that you are working on. What's a project route? It is basically a route you are trying to finish. It is usually a grade or two above the grade you are comfortably climbing. The route should be sufficiently challenging but not completely out of your reach.
It helps you to refine your climbing skills and work on an area that you are weak at. With your project route, it may be a particular crimp, or sloper, or pinch that you just can't hold, or it could be a short series of moves that is beyond your current physical ability.
6) Strength Training: There are several ways to go about this, but I suggest you two ways to improve your climbing skill:
Climb overhangs
Boulder
The last tip but the most important is: Enjoy your climbing session, if you have fun during your training session you will improve faster!!作者: fede 时间: 2009-8-28 12:20
