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(已翻译)Lesson 6 - Training for Climbing - Build Climbing Endurance

本帖最后由 steven 于 2009-11-14 23:51 编辑

Employ Rock Climbing Training Exercises to Increase Athletic Stamina

Want to improve at endurance climbing? These climbing training exercises can increase athletic stamina and improve athletic performance, leading to better rock climbing.

In addition to ample muscle power and great climbing technique, developing climbing endurance is a key component to improved rock climbing ability. In order to maximize rock climbing training time, first, find a climbing partner who wants to train climbing endurance,too. Then, use one or both of the climbing training exercises detailed below to improve climbing endurance. Finally, add in a cardio training element to increase overall athletic stamina.

Recruit a Climbing Training Partner
Because the climbing exercises described below are most effectively used with a committed climbing partner, it’s a good idea to find another rock climber who wants to train climbing endurance and improve at endurance climbing.


Climbing Training Exercise #1, Endurance Laps
For this climbing training exercise, select a well-known climbing route that might serve as a good second or third warm-up. It should be about a 6 or 7 in difficulty on a scale of 1 to 10. Toward the end of an evening of rock climbing (or a day outside), get on this route and climb it two or three times in a row, without resting or shaking out while climbing.

Try to climb as fluidly and technically correct as possible, even when arms get pumped. Rest only when being lowered to the ground, and immediately get back on the route. The climbing partner should encourage, as well as give feedback if and when climbing technique deteriorates. The goal is no more than three laps without falling — otherwise,the route is too easy.

This exercise trains the rock climber to climb with good climbing technique even when pumped, while at the same time, building up climbing endurance by pushing a climber to their maximal limit. Try to notice how climbing technique changes as fatigue builds, and really work to maintain good climbing form no matter what.

Climbing Training Exercise #2, Come and Back Climbing
For this climbing training exercise, select a well-known climbing route that might serve as a good first warm-up. It should be about a 3 to 5 in difficulty on a scale of 1 to 10. Get on this route to come-and-back climb it, without shaking out, as many times as possible until failure. Just like in the first exercise, focus on maintaining climbing technique while pumped.

This exercise can be done in conjunction with the above exercise. This way, both climbing partners have the opportunity to use the climbing training exercises, and to take advantage of the resting and recovery time while the partner is climbing.

This climbing training exercise can yield great benefits during future onsight climbing attempts, as it helps teach the rock climber how to come back from a difficult section. Sometimes, being able to down climb a sequence back to a rest or to get the proper hand order can help a rock climber regroup and actually recover enough to onsight a climbing route.

Increase Athletic Stamina Overall, CardioTraining
Try to incorporate at least one or two days per week of cardio training into a climbing training regimen for overall fitness. This does not mean that the rock climber needs to run six miles everyday. On the contrary, it’s important to have enough complete (meaning zero activity) rest days for top climbing performance. Just add in one or two days per week of 30- to 60-minute light cardio training for general fitness.

Use Endurance Climbing Training Exercises to Improve at Climbing
By using the above rock climbing training exercises regularly, climbing partners will find that they can easily improve their endurance climbing ability. Finding a willing climbing partner who wants to engage in this type of training for climbing endurance is a key to succeeding. Do the climbing exercises regularly — at least once a week — as well as adding in some cardio training to improve athletic performance on the rocks.



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本帖最后由 steven 于 2009-11-14 23:50 编辑

...another one lesson for you...I hope can be useful :lol
Ciao

第六课--攀岩训练之建立攀岩耐力


利用攀岩训练练习增强运动耐力

想增强耐力型的攀岩能力?这些攀岩训练练习可以增强运动耐力和提高运动能力,让你爬得更好。

除了强大的肌肉力量和出色的攀岩技巧外,发展攀岩耐力也是提高攀岩能力的一个基本要素。为了最大限度的利用攀岩训练的时间,首先应找一个同样也想训练攀岩耐力的伙伴;然后利用以下一个或全部两个练习方法来提高攀岩的耐力;最后加入心肺功能训练部分,来提高整体的运动耐力。

找一个攀岩训练伙伴
找一个同样想通过训练耐力来提高耐力型攀岩能力的伙伴是个不错的主意,因为下面描述的练习和执着的攀岩者一起练最有效。

攀岩练习#1,线路绕圈耐力练习
选一条熟悉的,用于第二或第三轮热身的线路来作为这个训练的练习。这条线应该在难度以110的标准中,大约为67的难度。安排在晚上的攀岩训练最后的时间(或是在户外攀岩日)一口气爬这条线路23次,攀爬时不能休息或甩手。

尽量爬得流畅和运用正确的技术,即使在手臂变得僵硬的时候。只能在被放下地面的时间内才能休息,到地后马上继续回到线路上。攀岩伙伴应该相互鼓励,同时如果对方技术变形时,应该及时提醒。这条线路的目标应该是爬不到3圈就会脱落--否则说明这条线路太简单了。

这个练习训练攀岩者即使在手臂僵硬的时候仍要运用好的技术,同时通过突破攀岩者的最大极限建立攀岩耐力。试着感觉一下在疲劳的时候,攀岩技术是如何变形的,然后无论如何尽力保持好的攀爬状态。

攀岩练习#2,来回攀爬练习
选一条熟悉的,用于第一轮热身的线路来做这个练习。这条线应该在难度以110的标准中,大约为35的难度。在这条线路上来回的攀爬,直到脱落为止。次数越多越好,中间不能甩手休息。像上一个练习一样,在手臂僵硬时也要专注于保持攀岩技术不变形。

这个练习可以和上个练习连着做。这样2个攀岩伙伴都可以有机会用到2种训练练习,并且可以利用攀岩伙伴攀爬的时候休息,恢复体力。

这个练习对以后尝试ON SIGHT 线路的时候非常有好处,因为它教会攀岩者如何从难点处爬回来。有时候下攀回到休息处或换到正确的出手顺序能帮助你重新组织动作和确实恢复到足够的力量来ON SIGHT线路。

增强全面的运动耐力,心肺功能训练
在整个攀岩训练周期中,尽量在每周安排12天的时间进行针对全面健身的心肺功能训练。这不是指攀岩者每天需要跑6英里。相反的,对攀岩者来说,为极限的攀岩活动安排足够的完全(意指零运动)休息日非常重要。只需在每周安排12天进行3060分钟用于全面健身的轻微心肺功能训练即可。

利用耐力型攀岩训练练习来提高攀岩能力
通过利用以上攀岩练习方法进行有规律的训练,攀岩伙伴们会发现很容易就可以提高耐力型攀岩的能力。找一个同样想进行这种针对攀岩耐力训练的伙伴是成功的基本要素。有规律的进行这些练习--至少每周一次--同时加入些心肺功能训练来提高在岩壁上的表现。

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It's very  useful for us . You will meet with Steven in Guanzhou  later .
Steven go there  for business today and he will not come back Xiamen until 05Nov.

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Enjoy the endurance training, everybody!:lol

Fede, we still have 2 lessons to go, right?:handshake

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Study hard lesson 6 !

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