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标题: (已翻译)Lesson 7.3 - Training on the Campus Board [打印本页]

作者: fede    时间: 2009-12-24 16:36     标题: (已翻译)Lesson 7.3 - Training on the Campus Board

本帖最后由 steven 于 2010-2-5 15:07 编辑

The principal reasons for “campusing” are to train upper-body power and muscle fiber recruitment. To understand what we’re talking about, let’s make a few distinctions. While strength is the ability to maintain muscle contraction against a maximum load, power is the ability to generate a maximal contraction rapidly. Strength, then, is more of a static force, while power is dynamic. A campus board is an excellent tool for training strength, but its greatest asset by far is its ability to train power. If a hold on a climb can’t be reached under static strength, you need to move towards it explosively and that’s where power comes in. We define recruitment as the ability to fire as many of the fibers in a given muscle as possible at once. You need to increase your recruitment, not just for initiating a dynamic move, but also for “sticking” the target hold. While catching the target depends on timing and coordination, if you can’t contract enough muscle fibers rapidly enough, you won’t be able to hang on to it. Recruitment, then,especially forearm recruitment, is the key to sticking hard dead points, and“campusing” is the best way we know of to improve it. In the normal course of campus board training, you will also realize huge gains in dynamic technique:timing, coordination, confidence, etc., as well as static strength. “Campusing”will improve all aspects of your climbing. How much you should emphasize campus board training depends on your goals. Those wanting to improve their on-sight climbing should use it sparingly and concentrate on doing more climbing mileage, while those interested in succeeding on hard red points or boulder problems should use it as a primary training method. The board should be used in conjunction with other forms of training, for spells of 4 to 8 weeks, not continuously throughout the year. Gradually increase usage, from once a week to as much as 2 or 3 times a week, and then taper back down, as you re-emphasize other forms of training. As top climbers know, power takes a long time to gain,but once you have it, you retain it for much longer than endurance. Fresher Is Better When campusing, the general approach is different than when training for endurance. On the campus board, the idea is to do the hardest exercises that you can, in perfect style. You should only train on a campus board after a rest day or when you are completely recovered from your last climbing or training session. Additionally, you must rest after every exercise within your campus routine long enough to recover completely. Three to five minutes is the norm,but you can rest as much as 10 minutes if necessary. Power can only be trained on a totally fresh muscle.

How Much Is Too Much?
You’re determined to see an improvement, so you want to keep at it for hours, but you’re playing with fire. On a campus board, more work does not equal more gain; it equals injury. Never train to exhaustion on a campus board. Do the hardest moves you can in good style and come back two or three days later. Be patient and remember: so long as you don’t get injured, you will get stronger. As a general rule, it’s okay to do one to four sets of any given exercise. As long as you are improving or maintaining from one set to the next, it’s okay to continue with that exercise.As soon as you are weaker on one set than the last, it’s time to move on to another exercise or call it a day. Several exercises are described below; you cannot train all of them in the same session. Choose a couple of exercises each time and concentrate on those. Stop your session and begin your warm down when your muscles have lost their “snap”.

Resting is perhaps the best thing about campusing because you get to do more of it than with other types of training.Rest, rest and rest some more. Although well-conditioned campus addicts may rest for only about two full days after every session, if you push yourself hard, take three or four days off. Don't expect quick results. If you feel like you're resting too long, not doing quite enough, that's good; that's how you should feel.

Warm Up, Warm Down
It is critical to warm up thoroughly; much more so than with other forms of training. You can start by climbing, bouldering or doing easy pull-ups and dead hangs, along with gentle stretching.Make the first fifteen minutes ridiculously easy and gradually increase the intensity until you’re at full power. Reverse this process at the end of your session to prevent injury and speed up recovery. The warm down should be even easier than the warm up. It should feel as if your doing almost nothing. The idea is just to keep the blood flowing for 15 or 20 minutes after the high intensity part of your workout. A typical session might involve up to an hour of pull-ups, stretches and climbs up and down the board on the larger holds,with all of the high intensity exercises done in the next 20 to 30 minutes, followed by 15 to 20 minutes of warm down.

Stretching is simply insurance against injury.Stretch regularly and you’ll wonder why you bother, but don’t stretch and one day you’ll suffer. It’s a good idea to stretch between sets and critical to stretch after the session, but be careful about stretching before your workout.Never stretch a cold muscle.

2009-12-24 16:36

How To Grasp The Grips
You want to use an open-handed grip as much as possible. Most climbers are weaker open-handed than crimped, so you may find this hard at first, but you’ll get used to it. Training open-handed will increase your crimp strength (but not vice-versa), and it is essential for holding pockets, slopers and certain edges, as well as making moves at maximum stretch, and catching dynos. Most importantly, however, using an open hand lowers the potential for injury. As you adapt to campus training, you can incorporate a little crimp training to increase your maximum edge-holding power, but keep it to a minimum.

What’s The Point?
The dead point is an instant in time, at the apex of any dynamic move, when you are neither rising nor falling. In all dynamic moves, large dynos or short snatches, the goal is to be in perfect position to grasp the target hold during the dead point. As you perfect this technique, the dead point will begin to feel like an instant of weightlessness.As you continue to improve your timing and coordination, the dead point will seem to get longer and longer.
“Campusing” is one of the best ways to improve your all-around “dead pointing” skill. Because you train movement between holds at varying distances, you learn how to generate the precise force and timing required to catch holds accurately and consistently. It cannot be overstressed how fundamental dynamic moves are to good climbing technique. A well-executed dyno is often more efficient than a static move, even when it’s not strictly necessary.

Alternate Your Leading Hand
You should do most sequences as pairs, first leading with one hand, then with the other. This avoids over-training your strong side and keeps you balanced.

Making It Easier
If you find some of the moves or exercises suggested here too difficult to start out on, put your feet on a chair or on the wall behind the board, to take off as much weight as necessary. Be sure to have ample padding under your board, as landing on your back is a distinct possibility.


Power Throws
This fundamental exercise trains forearm recruitment, upper-body power and dead point accuracy through explosive upward moves between rungs at various levels. Each sequence involves two moves plus matching at a hold. Number the rungs 1, 2, 3 on up, starting with the lowest.With your feet hanging free and both hands on the lowest convenient rung,launch for another rung with one hand, then reach for an even higher rung with the other, match, and you’re through. For example, match and hang on rung 1.Throw with your right hand to rung 4, then pull through to rung 6 with your left. Match on rung 6 and drop. Try to complete the same exercise by using every possible sequence of holds between the lower and upper chosen rungs, for example: 1-2-6, 1-3-6, 1-4-6, 1-5-6. Different push-pull forces, as well as different timing, are required with hands at different levels and although the moves in the middle range will feel easy, those at the extremes will not. Also,try going all-out for the maximum total distance, say 1-4-8 or 1-5-9. *Remember to lead with alternate hands.

Doubles & Plyometrics
Moving both hands at the same time is a great way to improve overall coordination. It also builds recruitment and confidence.Begin by doing the easiest moves to feel this out. Just jump from one rung to the next. Eventually, increase your range and stack a series of doubles together,climbing up the board and down again. An advanced version of this is the “two steps forward one step backward” routine: 1-3-2-4-3-5-4-6 etc. A related exercise is plyometric campusing, which involves dropping both hands from a higher hold to a lower one (a reverse double dyno), then jumping up again as fast as possible. The key is absorbing the downward motion and reversing the force into an upward motion as rapidly and smoothly as possible. Be careful not to overdo it. This is a very advanced exercise, and the potential for injury is very high. Never catch a hold with your elbows locked or extend all the way to a locked elbow on the negative contraction. Feel out your tolerance with some easy moves on large holds the first few times. Introduce this exercise gradually, a little more each week for a few months. Even when you’ve adapted to high intensity campus training, don’t do hard plyometric sessions more than once a week.

Static Moves & Lock-Offs
Any kind of campusing will improve your statics strength as a spin-off, but you can train it specifically by doing small “power throws” slowly and as statically as possible. Also try “laddering” up and down the board a rung or two at a time, without dynoing. Static lock-offs can be trained by putting your feet on the wall behind the board or on a chair, to take as much weight as necessary. As with all campus board exercises, make the moves hard enough to keep the total number of repetitions low (3-5 on each arm). The idea is to train maximum force, not endurance.

When you feel like you’ve adapted to full hand training, you might want to try isolating fingers. Two fingers is the norm here, but don’t be afraid to mix it up. As with everything, build up slowly.You might want to start by doing dead-hangs and pull-ups with various combination of three, two, or one finger. Again, use the wall or a chair to take weight as necessary. It is important also to realize that different sized holds will train different muscles. If you’ve been focusing your training on small holds, forearm strength may no longer be your limiting factor. You should also train longer moves on larger holds for a while, to increase the recruitment of your upper arms and torso. In cut or flat holds will slightly alter the muscles used and it’s worth experimenting with as many types as possible. The more you vary your training, the more effective it will be.

What Works For You?
While we are not sports physiologists, we do have a lot of hands-on experience and have learned from some of the best climbers in the world. However, exercises that work for us may not work for you and vice-versa. Experiment with your own program and figure out what works best for you. Always remember to warm up thoroughly, start small, and take plenty of rest days.

Don’t Forget To Go Climbing
Finally, of course, the whole point is to improve your climbing. “Campusing” is a powerful tool for improvement, but any gain made on the board will require a period of adaptation on the rock for you to see its full value. So go climbing, have fun, and remember, all it takes to succeed is a modicum of talent and a lot of dedication. In the words of Sheffield’s master boulderer Richie Patterson: “Be good, and if you can’t be good, be strong.”

图片附件: sshot-9.jpg (2009-12-24 16:36, 19.25 KB) / 下载次数 456

作者: fede    时间: 2009-12-24 16:53

本帖最后由 steven 于 2010-2-5 14:57 编辑


利用木条指力板训练的首要原因是为了训练上身的爆发力和肌肉纤维动员能力。让我们来做一些区分,以便了解我们所谈的是什么东西。力量指的是保持肌肉收缩以承受最大负荷的能力;爆发力指的是迅速产生最大肌肉收缩的能力。力量更多指的是静态力量;爆发力指的是动态力量。木条指力板是一种训练力量极好的工具,但是它最大的优点就是用来训练爆发力。如果线路上的点用静态力量无法够着的话,你就必须动态地向这个点移动,这就是爆发力起的作用。我们给肌肉纤维动员能力的定义是:在特定肌肉迅速发动最多肌肉纤维的能力。你必须提高肌肉纤维的动员能力,不光是为了做动态动作,同时为了抓住目标点。抓住目标点靠的是把握时机和协调能力。如果你无法及时收缩足够多的肌肉纤维,就无法紧紧抓住手点。肌肉纤维动员能力,特别是前臂的肌肉纤维动员能力,是抓住高难度的dead point的决定因素,而木条指力板训练就是提高这个能力的最佳方法。

在平常的木条指力板训练过程中,你还会发觉动态技术也得到极大的提高:如时机把握能力,协调能力和自信心等,以及静态力量。它将全面地提高你攀岩的能力。需要花多大的精力来加强木条指力板训练,要看你的目标。想要提高ON-SIGHT 能力的攀岩者应该谨慎地使用木条指力板,并专注于爬更多的线路;而那些对想成功红点高难度线路或抱石线路的攀岩者来说,应该将他作为主要的训练方法。它应该作为其他不同的训练方法间的连接项目,在4-8周的时间段内进行,而不是整年持续地训练。慢慢地增加使用量,从一周1次到最多一周2次或3次,然后随着重新加强其他形式的训练,而逐渐减量。因为高水平的攀岩者知道,爆发力要很长时间才能获得,但一旦拥有,可以比耐力保持更长的时间。训练时,状态越佳越好。爆发力训练和耐力训练的总体方法大不相同。







2010-2-5 14:55

静止点(dead point) 是时间上的某个瞬间,在动态动作的最高点,当你既不是上升也不是下落的时候。在各种动态动作、大的动态或短距离的抓握手点中,目标就是在静止点期间在最佳的位置抓住目标点。随着你完善这个技术,静止点就会觉好像是失重的瞬间。再随着你继续提高把握时机的能力和协调性,就会觉得静止点好像变得原来越长一样。
木条指力板训练是提高全方位dead pointing技巧(静止点动作技巧)的最佳方法之一。因为你在各种距离的点之间训练动作,你知道了如何精确地发力和所需的时机来准确稳定地抓住手点。说基本的动态动作是好的攀爬技术一点也不过分。一个干净利落的动态经常比静态动作更有效率,即使是在不那么必要的时候。




通过在多层的木条间爆发性的向上移动,这个基础练习可以训练前臂肌肉动员能力,上身爆发力和dead point的准确性。每组包含了2个动作加一个在同一个点上的双手合并。从最低格开始,上方标出123格。双手抓住最底下的一格,两脚离地悬空,然后拉起,一只手抓另外一格,接着另一只手向上抓更高的另一格,最后双手合并。这样就算完成了。举个例子,双手合并吊在第1格,拉起,右手抓第4格,然后再拉起,左手抓第6个,最后在第6格双手合并,再跳下来。尽量在不同的特定低格和高格之间尝试完成不同的动作组合,例如:1-2-6, 1-3-6, 1-4-6, 1-5-6。不同的下压、上拉力量,以及不同的时机都要求手在不同的木条上,虽然你会觉得中等距离的动作简单,但是极限距离的动作却会很难。另外,也可以尝试全力做最远距离的动作,如1-4-8 或 1-5-9。注意:记得换不同的起始手。





最后,所有的目的当然是提高你攀岩的水平。木条指力板是一种让你进步的有力训练工具,但是在板上得到的东西要在岩壁上适应一段时间后你才能看出它的价值。因此出去攀岩吧,享受快乐,并且记住成功的因素是一点点的天赋加N多的奉献。用英国谢菲尔德抱石大师Richie Patterson的话就是:“做优秀的,如果不能的话,那就做有实力的”。


Ciao Steven, this is the last lesson...If you already did all the lessons you are ready to climb ;)
I wrote a lot but I had no time to train, we will attend the New Year Party on January 23rd so...It's time to work-out. I coming to fight with your boulders!

By the way, many thanks for your useful translation!!

See you next year.


图片附件: 1.jpg (2010-2-5 14:55, 17.21 KB) / 下载次数 469

作者: 袋鼠    时间: 2009-12-24 22:56

作者: steven    时间: 2009-12-26 11:13

本帖最后由 steven 于 2009-12-26 11:14 编辑

2# fede

Thanks for your lessons. It's a great help.:handshake

I translate too much but train too less:lol

Merry Christmas & Happy New Year!
作者: steven    时间: 2010-2-5 15:09

Finally, it's done!!!:victory:

This lesson really took time. Thanks again for the lessons, Fede.:handshake
作者: fede    时间: 2010-2-6 02:31

Thanks Steven, 新年快乐!!!
作者: 自由人    时间: 2010-12-13 11:33

回复 2# fede


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