阳朔日记--作者Chris Sharma此次阳朔之行的摄影师

作者：Mike Call 编译：Steven

偶然在NM转帖的链接www.momentumvm.com网站上看到了这些日记，从另外一个角度讲述了Chris Sharma在阳朔的攀岩之旅。试着将他翻译一下，和岩友们一起分享。如有不妥之处，请指正。原文链接：
http://www.momentumvm.com/cms/in ... d=301&Itemid=43
http://www.momentumvm.com/cms/in ... d=302&Itemid=43
http://www.momentumvm.com/cms/in ... d=303&Itemid=43
http://www.momentumvm.com/cms/in ... d=304&Itemid=43

Yangshuo阳朔 2009年4月10日星期五

One week ago I arrived in China to shoot with Chris Sharma and Daila Ojeda in the fantasyland called Yangshuo. Although this is typically the beginning of the monsoon season, we've been extremely lucky and have been able to climb every day.
一周前，我来到了如梦境般的阳朔, 为Chris Sharma 和 Daila Ojeda拍摄纪录此次的攀岩之行。尽管正值雨季开始之际，我们却非常的幸运可以每天出去攀岩。

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2009-5-24 00:25

These two are in very good shape and climbing really well. The time spent on Spanish stone has them prepared for the brilliant routes that stretch up to 30 meters. As already reported online, Chris is killing it here, onsighting a few 14a's, repeating American Gangster (the controversially chipped route) without the chipped hold. Further down the wall,he established another 14b called "Spicy Noodle", featuring a long skinny tufa that goes from pencil thin to a foot thick.
他们两个状态非常好，并且表现相当地出色。在西班牙岩壁上的时间，让他们有充足的准备应付这些长达30多米的精彩线路。就像网上报道的那样，Chris在这里进行了一番屠杀！Onsight了几条14A，完成了“美国流氓”（一条因用电锤打了一个人工点，而有争议的线路）并且没有用那个人工点。在同一个岩壁上他开了一条叫 “辣面条”的14B新线，特点就是有一条很长的水脊，形状从铅笔那样细到脚那样粗。

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2009-5-24 00:25

He's got himself a monster project as you might expect, to the left of the Noodle. Its nearly 30 meters long and connects a series of desperate boulder problems with marginal rests. He tried in earnest yesterday despite the rain in the morning beginning to run down the wall, and managed to get 3/4 of the way up the route before falling.
如大家所期待的，他在 “辣面条”的左边为自己开发了一条雄伟的线路作为PROJECT。将近30米长，由连续一系列极难的抱石动作组成，并且几乎没有好的休息点。尽管早上下的雨已经开始慢慢渗透到岩壁，他还是非常专注的试攀，并拼尽全力直到线路的3/4处才脱落。

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2009-5-24 00:25

We'll get video online soon of some of the highlights and a full video of the trip will be out soon.
我们很快会在网上发布其中的一些精彩视频片段，并尽快推出此次行程的完整视频。

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steven发表于 2009-7-28 23:14 | 只看该作者

Yangshuo, Part 2 阳朔2 2009年4月12日星期日

We are getting more frequent rains now as expected, but we managed to get out the last two days to climb anyway. The city of Yangshuo is really busy this weekend with a holiday in Hong Kong bringing in hundreds of climbers (not to mention the Sharma Fans seeking autographs).
和预想的一样，雨下得越来越频繁了。但在最后两天我们还是尽量出去攀岩。这个周末阳朔变得热闹非凡。因为香港有个长假，几百个攀岩者来到了这里。(更不用说那些为了得到亲笔签名的Sharma粉丝们了）

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2009-5-24 00:33

After driving to White Mountain to check out Chris's project and discovering it soaking wet, we bailed to the Riverside and climbed instead. Merely feet from the road, right on the Li River, its hard to get a sense of the wall unless you take a boat to the other side and look. Boone thought it was a lot like Raven's Tor in the UK in terms of scale.
开车到白山来看Chris的Project线路情况如何，结果发现全部湿掉后，我们临时改到漓江边攀岩。岩壁就离路边几英尺，紧挨着漓江边上。如果不搭船到对岸看，很难看到岩壁的真面目。Boone认为从规模上看，很像英国的攀岩圣地Raven's Tor。

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2009-5-24 00:33

Abond, one of the top Chinese climbers, came out with us and did a brilliant 13a and Chris attempted a very long 13d onsight with a heartbreaking crux at the very end- which did just that to Chris. Can't win em all.
阿邦，中国顶尖的攀岩者之一，陪同我们出来，并完成了一条漂亮的 13A。而Chris尝试onsight一条很长的13D，在线路结束部分有一个让人崩溃的难点。正是这个难点让Chris的onsight尝试失败了。正如人们常说的：并不是所有的时候都能赢。

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2009-5-24 00:33

We are studying the weather sites looking for a window of opportunity to get back out to the rock but the reports are all over the place. That's just how it goes in China during monsoon season...
我们查遍了天气预报的网站，希望能有个短暂的机会能回到白山的岩壁攀爬，但是预报说接连几天都下雨。没办法，中国的雨季就是这样。。。

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steven发表于 2009-7-28 23:14 | 只看该作者

Yangshuo, part 3 阳朔3 2009年4月16日星期四

Going on a climbing trip is a massive gamble. This is true whether you are Joe Blow from Detroit or Chris Sharma from Santa Cruz.The weather could suck, for one thing. The rock could be choss. The routes you heard so much about could be no good. But sometimes it works out.
Chris had become somewhat despondent about his project at White Mountain due to the perpetual wetness, but today, there is new hope. At a consistently dry crag, he found a new desperate route to do, a finish to a .13c that looks like it could be another in his series of 14d/15a projects... we'll see.
外出攀岩旅行本来就是一场大的赌博。对任何人都一样，不管你是来自底特律的Joe Blow（不知这位仁兄因何许人也），还是来自加州圣克鲁兹的Chris Sharma。你可能碰到糟糕的天气，太碎的岩壁。听很多人说过的线路，有可能并没那么好。但有时候确有奇迹发生。
Chris已经开始对白山的Project线路老是湿湿的感到有些沮丧了。但是今天有了个新的希望。在雷劈山一块常年干燥的岩壁上，他找到了一条新的让人期待的线路。结束部分有13C的难度，看起来很可能是他众多14D/15A Project中的又一条线路。让我们拭目以待！

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2009-5-24 00:45

Daila had a great day as well, sending "Lightning", a beautiful 14a up the middle of the same crag. It was especially impressive due to the 75 degree temps with 80% humidity. Good one Daila.
Daila今天也表现出色，完成了“闪电”，一条很美的14A，就在同一块岩壁的中间。更让人印象深刻的是，她是在华氏75度（摄氏23.9度）和80%湿度的环境下完成的。好样的，Daila！

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steven发表于 2009-7-28 23:15 | 只看该作者

Yangshuo, Part 4 阳朔4 2009年4月30日星期四

I've been home a week now, and its taken me this long to get an update online. Normally, I wouldn't take this long, and I would do it from China. But things have a way of coming up, a la Murphy's law.
My hotel room was broken into after a long and rewarding day of shooting and climbing. Some ninja wanna-be's spanned the gap from an abandoned hotel next to ours, ran across the roof to the room next to mine, jimmied open the window and ransacked our Aussie friend Duncan's room-seconds after he shut the door, apparently. Then, after stealing his laptop and cash and other goodies, they went to the next window over-mine. They only had time to get my B-camera, my iPod, and my laptop- it seems that they probably heard us pull up and they bailed, leaving my passport, Blackberry, credit cards and a pile of cash.Normally I have a backup at home, but in this case, it WAS my backup-my main computer died just before this trip.
我已经回到家一周了，但却要花这么长时间来更新网站信息。平常我不会等那么久的，而且在中国的时候就会做了。事情总是按照它应该发生的那样发生了，这就是不可违抗的墨菲定律。
有一天，在结束一整天卓有成效的长时间攀爬和摄录后，有人闯入了我旅馆的房间。很明显，盗贼从相邻的一个废弃旅馆跃过楼之间的间隙到我隔壁房间的房顶上，用铁撬撬开了窗子，洗劫了我们澳大利亚朋友Duncan的房间，就在他关门后不久。在偷了他的笔记本电脑、现金和其他财物后，接着他们又撬开了下个窗子进了我的房间。好像听到我们回来的声音，他们只有时间偷走我的小型摄像机、iPod和我的笔记本电脑，然后就匆匆逃走了。留下了我的护照、黑莓手机、信用卡和一叠现金没来得及偷走。一般我都在家里有一个资料备份。但这次我家里的备用主电脑在这次旅行前坏掉了。

Chris working on "The Dumpling Of All Evil".
Chris在攀爬"The Dumpling Of All Evil"

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2009-5-24 00:52

So now I have a replacement, i'm nearly done restoring all my software, and I am editing the China footage. Regardless of the bummer of losing my info and electronics, I'm psyched to edit this film and release it to you, the climbers. Its a beautiful place, and the climbing community is just getting started over there.
Look for the film to be released shortly.
所以现在我换了台电脑编辑这次中国之行的视频资料，并且基本恢复了所有的软件。忘了丢掉的资料和电子产品这些不愉快的经历吧，我正专心编辑这部影片，并将尽快向攀岩者们发布。那是个美丽的地方，而且攀岩人群和团体正逐步壮大。影片将在近期发布，敬请期待！

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