Sharma的世界--新9a+线路“Pachamama”

作者：Chris Sharma 翻译：Steven

原文出处：http://www.momentumvm.com/cms/in ... id=16&Itemid=50

Pachamama- New 9a+ 新9a+线路“Pachamama”

Last friday I finally sent my project in Oliana “Pachamama”. I was so stoked to squeeze it in before the summer heat. Pachamama is a blue wall just to the right of my other route Papichulo 9a+. Its 50m long and very pumpy and psychological.

上周五我终于完成了我在Oliana(西班牙东北部地区加泰罗尼亚的一个自治市)的Project线路“Pachamama”。我很兴奋终于在夏天的酷热到来之前设法将它完成了。“Pachamama”是一面蓝色的岩壁，就在我开发另一条9a+ “Papichulo”的右边。有50米长，很考验手臂耐力和心理。

PachaMama01.jpg (249.46 KB)
2009-6-5 11:53

The first 2/3 of the route is super resistence maybe 9a+ by itself. Its super sustained with most of the the holds being small mini tufa pinches and slopey underclings . I really had to climb with a lot of rythm. The individual moves arent that bad but I fell so many times with my hands opening up totally pumped. After there is "ok" rest and maybe 8b+ or 8c to the top. Just before the finishing jug there is a slabby redpoint crux with slopey sidepulls far apart with really bad feet (two days before I fell there).

线路的前2/3部分超级的别，大概有9a+的难度，几乎都是连续不断的巨小的凝灰岩捏点和斜面反抠点。我必须爬得非常的有节奏。每个动作都不是太难，但是我感到很多次我的手张开时完全硬掉了。然后是一个“还可以的”休息点，接下来到顶的部分大概有8b+或8c。就在结束的把手点前，是线路的难点。它是个很远的板状岩斜面侧拉点，而且脚点相当的烂（两天前我就是在那里冲坠的）。

Anyways its such a perfect line. It a beautiful bulging wall with 3d water streaks (like small mini tufa ribs) Oliana is a magical place. Its such a privelige to have it as one of my home crags and have the opportunity to put up such a perfect line.

不管怎么说，这条线路太完美了。它是面向外凸的漂亮岩壁，上面有立体的水条纹（就像小凝灰岩排骨一样）。Oliana是个神奇的地方。能把这里做为我主攀岩地之一，并有机会开出如此完美的线路真是我莫大的荣幸。

PachaMama02.jpg (295.39 KB)
2009-6-5 11:53

Im still a bit confused over the grade. Its definitly harder than Papichulo and all the other 9a+ routes Ive done in spain but Im not sure if its 9b. Aside from the mandatory cabron jump to a sloper on the lower section, the resistent style of climbing on the route isn't quite the best style for me and I can imagine other people being better suited. We'll see what people think. For now I'd say its hard 9a+.

对这条线的难度我还是有点疑惑。它绝对比“Papichulo” 以及我在西班牙完成过的其他9a+的线路都要难，但是我不能够确定它是否有9b。除了在线路的底下部分那个他妈必须跳到一个斜面点（我们经常说的open点，英文叫sloper)的动作外,这种很别的线路风格并不是我擅长的。我相信有的人可能更适合。让我们看看其他人的想法。现在我只能说他有9a+的难度。

PS:翻译真是件头疼的工作，不仅耗时耗力，还费脑细胞:lol 真佩服那些能翻译整本书的人（不过，人家是专家之类的，我们只是偶尔玩玩啦）。由于文化的差异和专业术语，有时候碰到不理解的，或懂了却找不到恰当的中文来表达的词句，真的是挠头骚耳，悔恨当初自己语文为什么不好好学啊！这次resistance/resistent这个单词就搞死我了。本文原句：

The first 2/3 of the route is super resistence maybe 9a+ by itself.
线路的前2/3部分超级的别，大概有9a+的难度。

the resistent style. of climbing on the route isn't quite the best style. for me
这种很别的线路风格并不是我最擅长的。

词的“意思是让爬的人穷于抵抗，无法主动出击。”我根据个人理解，我只能暂时译成“别”了。我还在盗版岩与酒上发了个贴http://bbs.rockbeer.org/viewthread.php?tid=1241668465 如大家有更好的意见，欢迎共同探讨。现在有了网络真是方便，有很多专业资料都可以搜出来。

另，8264上也有另外一个译本，对原文有些删节http://www.8264.com/41023.html翻译就是这样，有时候译者会加入个人的理解和体会。

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