已译Lesson 7.1-How to Intensify a Climbing Training Program–for Expert Climber
[i=s] 本帖最后由 steven 于 2009-12-11 00:32 编辑 [/i]Training for climbing can be improved by the regular use of a hangboard, campus board, weight vest, exercise bands.
A hangboard, campus board, weight vest: each of these inexpensive items has more than one potential use in a climbing training program. Learn some of the ways these simple products can — separately and together — boost the intensity of a climbing workout routine and earn their place as valued pieces of climbing equipment.
[b]Hangboard[/b]
Fingerboards is most effective at training contact strength, body tension and general upper-body strength. Contact strength, also referred to as finger strength, is simply the ability to hold onto the holds (as opposed to the ability to move between the holds).
[b]Campus Board[/b]
Campusing on a campus board is one of the most intensely powerful workouts a climber can employ. A campus board session works arm and shoulder power, coordination, contact strength, dynamic movement,finger strength, and the core. Like hangboards, most gyms have campus boards,but they’re often neglected in favor of climbing.
[b]Weight Vest[/b]
Adding weight adds intensity to any workout,including hangboard workouts and campus board workouts, as well as just climbing in the indoor gym. By evenly distributing the added weight, the vest doesn’t throw off one’s sense of balance, which is a key for rock climbing.
[attach]1631[/attach] [i=s] 本帖最后由 steven 于 2009-12-11 00:30 编辑 [/i]
[size=3][b]第七课（[font=Verdana]1[/font][font=宋体]）[/font][font=Verdana]--[/font][font=宋体]如何增强攀岩训练计划的强度[/font][font=Verdana]--[/font][font=宋体]针对专业攀岩者[/font][/b][/size]
定期的利用悬吊指力板、木条指力板、负重背心和拉力绳进行训练可以提高攀岩训练水平。
悬吊指力板、木条指力板、负重背心：在攀岩训练计划中，这些便宜的器具每样都有不止一种的使用方法。学习如何单独地或一起地利用这些简单工具的使用方法，来加强例行攀岩训练的强度，让这些东西成为名副其实有价值的攀岩装备。
[b]悬吊指力板[/b]
指力板用于训练接触力量、躯干张力和上身整体力量最有效。接触力量也指手指力量，是指抓住手点的绝对能力（与之相对的是在手点和手点间移动的能力）。
[b]木条指力板[/b]
在木条指力板上练习是攀岩者可以利用的最强烈有力的训练方法。使用木条指力板期间可以锻炼手臂和肩膀力量、身体协调性、接触力量、动态动作、手指力量和核心力量。和悬吊指力板一样，大多数的岩馆都有木条指力板，但是和攀爬相比，他们往往被忽视。
[b]负重背心[/b]
在悬吊指力板、木条指力板的练习和在室内岩馆的攀爬中负重以增强训练的强度。通过平均地分配增加的重量，负重背心并不会破坏作为攀岩基本要素的身体平衡。
图一：悬吊指力板即紧凑又多功能
图二：木条指力板提供了一种强有力的训练方式
图三：加入负重背心来增强任何一项训练的强度
[attach]1645[/attach]
Ciao to everybody....the last two lessons about the exercises on the "Hangboard" and "Campus Board" are coming soon :)
As soon as possible I'll upload some pictures about my climbing wall, but I need to put some holds before...ahahah....
See you soon, maybe next weekend. I'm coming back on Saturday!
再见， 斐德 Fede， I can't wait to see the new climbing wall:D [b] [url=http://xmclimber.5d6d.com/redirect.php?goto=findpost&pid=2336&ptid=290]3#[/url] [i]steven[/i] [/b] 感谢 菲德 感谢 Steven 难得的好文 ahahah.....I'll upload some pics.
Do you have time to come here to help me to set up some routes? ;)
See you on Sunday
Ciao
斐德
Krabi: 我叫斐德，不是菲德 ;P Maybe I have a chance to go to your place because I am planning to go to Guangzhou at the end of this month, but I am not sure yet. [i=s] 本帖最后由 fede 于 2009-12-10 00:10 编辑 [/i]
Steven, if you are planning to come just do it before December 25th...after that day I'll be in Holiday ;) ...
Here you can see few pics about the Vibram Wall (but we can call it "my wall"...eheheh)
[attach]1638[/attach]
[attach]1639[/attach]
[attach]1640[/attach]
[attach]1641[/attach] It's a very nice wall. I love it!:D very nice , I love "my wall" . [i=s] 本帖最后由 steven 于 2009-12-11 00:34 编辑 [/i]
Translation is done! I love the short one:victory: ...because you are a lazy boy :lol
Do you have any plan for the weekend? I would like to go climb on Sunday afternoon...
Ciao We will go to the gym on Sunday afternoon also.
See you on Sunday.
页:
[1]