厦门岩友会's Archiver

fede 发表于 2009-9-27 09:27

(已翻译)Lesson 4 - Opposing Muscle Groups Climbing Training Program

[i=s] 本帖最后由 steven 于 2009-10-4 00:29 编辑 [/i]

[b]A Rock Climbing Workout Plan to Balance Muscles Using Exercise Bands[/b]

Every climbing training plan should include exercises to balance opposing muscle groups. Use exercise bands to add the five exercises below to any rock climbing workout.

Like stretching for rock climbing, the benefits of exercising opposing muscle groups to improve at rock climbing are not as readily obvious as working pull power or climbing technique — but they do exist. Learn why working opposing muscle groups can enhance any climbing training program. Discover five simple opposing muscle workouts using exercise bands, along with additional suggestions for preventing muscle imbalances.

[b]Why to Work Opposing Muscle [/b]
Groups Rock climbing and training for climbing tend to work certain muscle groups of the body more than others — particularly the upper-body pull muscles.Because of this, it’s in every rock climber’s best interest to attempt to balance the opposing muscle groups. Why? Because muscle imbalances can lead to chronic pain, injuries, and poor posture, as well as actually inhibiting gains in strength for rock climbing.

[b]Five Simple Exercises for Opposing Muscle [/b]
Groups Using exercise bands makes it easy to work opposing muscle groups.Optimally, purchase the exercise band with the resistance that allows for three sets of 10-12 reps for each of the following opposing muscle group exercises.For each exercise, be sure to warm up first, keep abs tight, breathe, and not lock elbows or knees. Also, move slowly and fluidly through the full range of motion for each exercise.

[list][*][i]Side Raises:[/i] Start in a standing position with a staggered stance, with knees slightly bent and the exercise band under one foot. Grasp the handles firmly, with arms at sides. Raise arms up to shoulder level out to each side (see Photo A), then lower.[/list]
[list][*][i]Front Raises:[/i] Stand as described for side raises. Raise arms up to shoulder level together in front of the body (see Photo B). Lower back down slowly and in control.[/list]
[list][*][i]Reverse Flies:[/i] Secure the exercise band using either the included door attachment, or around a non abrasive, solid post. Stand with feet about shoulder width apart and hands together in front of the body, at or just below shoulder level. Pull outward until hands are out to sides (see Photo C), and then move them back to center.[/list]
[list][*][i]Flies:[/i] Turn around and face away from the secured band (described above). Stand with feet about shoulder width apart and hands apart at about shoulder level, out to the sides. Bring hands together (see Photo D), and then back out to sides.[/list]
[list][*][i]Reverse Wrist Curls:[/i] In a seated position, wrap the band twice around the feet. With arms resting on legs and torso leaning forward, grasp the handles, palms facing down. Lift up and back with hands (see Photo E), and then down.[/list]
[b]Working Opposing Muscle Groups for Better Climbing Training[/b]
To maximize strength gains and avoid injuries, climbers should follow at least every other rock climbing workout with an opposing muscle group workout.This should be a key element of any rock climbing training program. Exercise bands provide a simple way to work opposing muscle groups, as illustrated by the five exercises described above. A qualified personal trainer can help design a more comprehensive opposing muscle workout plan to beef up any climbing training plan.

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fede 发表于 2009-9-27 09:36

[i=s] 本帖最后由 steven 于 2009-10-4 23:42 编辑 [/i]

...are you ready for the competition? ;P


[size=4][b]第四课[font=Verdana]--[/font][font=宋体]攀岩对抗肌训练计划[/font][/b][/size]


[size=3][b]利用拉力绳锻炼平衡肌肉的攀岩训练计划[/b][/size]

每个攀岩训练计划都应该包含有锻炼平衡对抗肌的练习。可以在攀岩训练中加入以下五种利用拉力绳进行的练习。

和针对攀岩的拉筋一样,锻炼对抗肌肉群对提高攀岩能力的好处,虽然没有练习引体力量或攀岩技术那样明显[font=Times New Roman]--[/font][font=宋体]但它们确实有用。让我们了解一下为什么锻炼对抗肌肉群可以加强攀岩训练计划,以及五种利用拉力绳进行的简单对抗肌练习和一些防止肌肉失衡的建议。[/font]


[size=3][b]为什么要锻炼对抗肌[/b][/size]
和其他运动相比,各种类型的攀岩和训练倾向于锻炼特定的肌肉群[font=Times New Roman]--[/font][font=宋体]特别是上身的拉力肌肉。因此,每个攀岩者最好应该平衡锻炼对抗肌群。为什么?因为肌肉失衡会导致慢性的疼痛,受伤和难看的体态,事实上还会阻碍攀岩力量的增长。[/font]

[size=3][b]五种针对对抗肌的简单练习[/b][/size]
运用拉力绳使锻炼对抗肌群变得很容易。最佳方法是买一条有弹性的拉力绳,利用它对以下每个对抗肌群进行[font=Times New Roman]10-12[/font][font=宋体]下的练习。每次练习都要先做热身,收腹,调整呼吸,并且肘部和膝盖不能弯曲锁定。还有,每个练习都要缓慢流畅地进行,全方位地运动。[/font]

[size=3][i][font=Symbol]* [/font][/i]侧举:先从这样的姿势开始:前后脚错开站立,膝盖略屈,将拉力绳踩在一只脚上,手臂放在两侧,紧握把手。两侧双臂上抬到肩膀水平位置(见图[font=Verdana]A[/font][font=宋体]),然后放下。[/font]

[i][font=Symbol]* [/font][/i]前举:身体姿势和侧举相同。双臂一起向身体前方上举至肩膀水平(见图[font=Verdana]B[/font][font=宋体])。控制住,慢慢放下。[/font]

[i][font=Symbol]* [/font][/i]扩胸式:将拉力绳固定在牢固的门把手上,或绕过坚固可靠的柱子。站在大概离一个肩膀距离的地方,双臂一起伸向前方,保持在肩部水平或略微下方。向后拉至身体两侧(见图[font=Verdana]C[/font][font=宋体]),然后再回到身体中央。[/font]

[i][font=Symbol]* [/font][/i]飞行式:转身背对着固定好的拉力绳(如上所描述)。站在大概离一个肩膀距离的地方,双臂展开,双手和肩膀平行。双手合拢(见图[font=Verdana]D[/font][font=宋体]),然后回到两侧。[/font]

[i][font=Symbol]* [/font][/i]反向屈腕:找个地方坐下,将拉力绳在双脚缠绕两圈。双臂放在腿上,身体向前倾,双手抓住把手,掌心向下。双手往上向后抬起(见图[font=Verdana]E[/font][font=宋体]),然后放下。[/font]
[/size]
[size=3][b]锻炼对抗肌来使攀岩训练更有效[/b][/size]
攀岩者至少应该在每个攀岩训练的间隔,做一次对抗肌的训练,这样不仅可以最大程度的增长力量,还可以防止受伤。这是每个攀岩训练计划的基本元素。如上面描述示范的五种练习方法,拉力绳提供了一种训练对抗肌的简单方法。当然,合格的个人教练可以帮你制定一个更全面的的对抗肌训练计划来加强攀你的岩训练计划。

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图[font=Times New Roman]A: [/font][font=宋体]利用拉力绳做侧举来锻炼三角肌[/font]
图[font=Times New Roman]B: [/font][font=宋体]用前举做对抗的动作[/font]
图[font=Times New Roman]C: [/font][font=宋体]扩胸式是另一种对抗动作[/font]
图[font=Times New Roman]D: [/font][font=宋体]飞行式提供了一种全方位的运动[/font]
图[font=Times New Roman]E: [/font][font=宋体]反向屈腕可以平衡僵硬的前臂[/font]

steven 发表于 2009-9-27 10:20

The competition is coming. Come on everybody!

Sorry, fede. I am busy and lazy recently.

steven 发表于 2009-10-4 00:30

Fede, where's next lesson:D

fede 发表于 2009-10-7 20:36

...It's coming!!
Thanks Steven, you are doing a really good job :)

See you during the weekend, I'll back to Xiamen for climb!!

安. 发表于 2010-1-28 17:41

有没有人有拉力绳?
我在淘宝上看了一下,从几块钱到几百块钱的都有。看不懂不同之处在哪里。

安. 发表于 2010-1-28 17:50

i tried to find an "exercise band" from internet, it turned out there are all different prices, from 8rmb to 300rmb.... what are the differences?

fede 发表于 2010-1-28 23:22

I bought mine at the Decathlon shop in Shenzhen:
[url]http://www.decathlon.com.cn/EN/fb-300-set-26685779/[/url]

but also this one is interesting:
[url]http://www.decathlon.com.cn/EN/t-tube-19529939/[/url]

But I think you can find something similar everywhere... don't buy the cheapest one, otherwise after one week you have to buy a new one! ;)

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